Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know it's far from perfect, but nevertheless.. for a first attempt at making something resembling a balance staff..it could have gone worse..

So I'm happy and I wanted to share this and say thanks for everyone on this friendly forum for sharing their knowledge. Much appreciated!!

It's small. I used 1.2mm blued steel. The cheap hand gravers @nevenbekriev mentioned (Thnx Nev!) performed like advertised.

Having your lathe under a microscope makes it easier as well.

20240915_220057.jpg

20240915_213942.jpg

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I am so glad to see someone doing so well. Actually, it looks almost perfect.

I feel I need to explain the purpose of some things in the balance staff so when somebody knows this things, then they will be made better.

The first thing here is the shape of this part, pointed with red arrow.

Untitled.png.9a40b63fd23ca8db5a2d26ac23061a8c.png

 

The figure shows the order of actions when staff turned between still centers in old fashion swiss turns. But no matter, this is the same in all other ways of turning staff. You see the part pointed with red in previous image 'з' is cylindrical, and then it is conical in 'и'. And the cone here  is reverse oriented against the pivot. It is done with one only purpose - to prevent the oil from climbing down (or up) the staff and keep it where it should stay - on the thin cylindrical part of the pivot. But to be such function possible, most important is at the end, the edge, pointed with green at the last image, to be sharp as knife. This sharp edge is formed by two surfaces - they both must be conical and prefectly polished. In the good quality old movements, the staffs have such part on both sides, not on upper side only.  But in simple staffs, again, the edge has to be sharp as knife, no matter there is no reverse oriented cone.

In modern watches with antishock devices, this reverse cone has disappeared due to the design of antishock system, and, may be it is found that it's presence is not that important as old watchmakers believed, but the sharp edge and polished surfaces is still something obligatory. 

The pivots of You staff need some more attention - the common rule is that the cylindrical part must be long 3X it's diameter. But, have in mind that sometimes in old (130+ years) movements, the pivots have to be longer. The pivots of You staff are much longer than needed, but this is something that will come in place with the practice.

And, the internal angles must be sharp too, now the roller will may be not go to the end as the angle there is not sharp. Again, some practice will make things perfect. As for first attempt, the staff shown here is more than ideal. Believe me, I have seen a lot first attempts and know what I am talking.

 

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Posted
14 hours ago, caseback said:

I know it's far from perfect, but nevertheless.. for a first attempt at making something resembling a balance staff..it could have gone worse..

So I'm happy and I wanted to share this and say thanks for everyone on this friendly forum for sharing their knowledge. Much appreciated!!

It's small. I used 1.2mm blued steel. The cheap hand gravers @nevenbekriev mentioned (Thnx Nev!) performed like advertised.

Having your lathe under a microscope makes it easier as well.

20240915_220057.jpg

20240915_213942.jpg

Well done caseback, I'm looking forward to my first, not quite ready.......to embarrass myself 😅

  • Haha 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I put the original broken glass (whats left of it) behind the acrylic. This is how it originally looked like. A cheap clock but I like it. Very noisy when the alarm comes wake up guaranteed! 🙂
    • If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
×
×
  • Create New...