Jump to content

Review of building a watch with parts from ofrei.com (Otto Frei)


Recommended Posts

Ofrei_22.thumb.jpg.e774918d7454f568c5056a47b9d627e5.jpg

Ofrei_23.thumb.jpg.4e68ba57b5e5a822cfe757fb871eec11.jpg

Ofrei_15.thumb.jpg.64ffb6de0c40e780d61dc72494551514.jpg

Ofrei_17.thumb.jpg.534b5e6b90757f0e0efc366fb56ddb2d.jpg

Ofrei_18.thumb.jpg.c439994790203a44cacbc7cef90ce98e.jpg

Ofrei_19.thumb.jpg.6ddbd0803e0aefb3f63a228e9193e9fd.jpg

Ofrei_20.thumb.jpg.001d1b9a71e958588b3a48e1bd0ea03c.jpg

Ofrei_01.thumb.jpg.15183866796275a3bc1c8067d13bc90e.jpg

Ofrei_02.thumb.jpg.8aba7677c77e6db12807f301890b7f03.jpg

Ofrei_04.thumb.jpg.235c7dd28200379503bd43e413dcc88f.jpg

Ofrei_05.thumb.jpg.934d7da4861d9c81fc061266cc976586.jpg

Ofrei_06.thumb.jpg.960370d0b277098d4702cd6154274450.jpg

Ofrei_07.thumb.jpg.5ed3bb691d97596c12bce48f7e063196.jpg

Ofrei_08.thumb.jpg.8e8c8f9ebdea8b2e50bfe96c64ad4038.jpg

Ofrei_09.thumb.jpg.1c224c9364bc9afb5640d33bdb327e5c.jpg

Ofrei_10.thumb.jpg.453fbaad77dc67a46e72b5c66d103353.jpg

Ofrei_11.thumb.jpg.119b5a29828131a67e5dc2c7b0c3cbcb.jpg

A few years ago, when I was still relatively new to the service and repair field, I found an intact but non-functioning ETA 2836-2 calibre movement in a bag of watch parts I had purchased at an auction for about 30 US dollars. That movement has now found its home in the Ofrei watch shown in the pictures.

Apart from the movement and the strap, I bought all the parts (case, hands, and dial) from the American website Ofrei.com. It cost me about 200 US dollars, nearly half of which was spent on shipping, import fees, and European taxes. As a non-American, I still feel it was worth the money. If I had been American, I would have found it exceptionally affordable.

The first time I disassembled the movement, the obvious and seemingly only issue was a black, sticky "gunk" on the pallet fork's impulse surfaces. At the time, I had no idea what caused this black and sticky "gunk." Now I believe, though I’m not entirely sure, that it was epilame that had somehow degraded or gone bad. Despite great efforts, I couldn’t clean the pallets, and I ended up buying a new one. Even so, the watch didn’t run very well.

A couple of years later, with more knowledge and experience, I disassembled the movement again but found no obvious issues. I serviced the movement again and adjusted the side shake and end shake of all the wheels as precisely as I could in the hope that it would help, but it didn’t.

Then, a few months ago, I decided to take the movement apart a third time, and this time I finally found the reason for the irregular and poor timekeeping: micro-oxidation and micro-rust on almost all the wheel pivots. Barely visible even at 40x magnification. I brought out my Jacot tool, and the problem was finally solved!

This wasn’t the first time the Jacot tool had brought one of my movements from either poorly functioning or somewhat acceptable performance to function as if it were brand new. The Jacot tool requires a significant investment, not least in acquiring the knowledge and training to use it, but it has once and for all proven to be worth the money and effort. The decisive moment for me was when @nickelsilver showed me how to hold the burnisher properly. For those of you who want to know more, you can click on this link: "How to hold a Jacot tool burnisher"

So, why buy a case, hands, and dial from Ofrei.com instead of from eBay, where a "stainless steel" case from China usually costs less than 50 US dollars? If you ask me, the answer is that Chinese cases on eBay are junk and a scam. The three I’ve purchased in total all had numerous issues, the most serious being that they rust (stainless steel, really?) and cause skin problems since I’m allergic to nickel!!! Less serious but still annoying is that the movement fits poorly in the case and that the threads are generally poorly made. There are several issues with these cases, but what I’ve described here should suffice. No more Chinese cases from eBay for me!

Are Ofrei’s cases manufactured in the USA, Germany, or Switzerland? I don’t know. They’re probably made in China as well, but at least there’s a contractor (Ofrei) who knows their stuff and has quality-controlled their deliveries. It may not be Rolex quality, but the case is symmetrical and carefully polished, and the case back fits the case like a glove (buttery smooth!). The dial is perfectly symmetrical, and the hands are straight and well-made. Best of all, all the parts fit together perfectly with the movement.

I’m so satisfied that I felt it was my duty to share my experiences. I hope someone finds it useful!

Ofrei_16.jpg

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 6
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
    • Help me out here, but with all the advertising on this site (which I don't mind) wouldn't it pay for itself or even make money for the owner ???
×
×
  • Create New...