Oris Aquis Big day date rotor/hammer fell off.

[Klassiker]

On 1/3/2025 at 8:39 PM, AndyGSi said:

parts are made in China

Maybe, but if they are Selitta branded they are swiss specified and swiss quality controlled.

[AndyGSi]

4 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

Maybe, but if they are Selitta branded they are swiss specified and swiss quality controlled.

Yes I agree.

[boogeez]

On 1/4/2025 at 3:39 AM, AndyGSi said:

The movements may be made in Switzerland but I expect this is correct and the parts are made in China.

I just hope it's really made in Switzerland. If it's made in China, it will be the same as the practice complete automatic bridge I bought but alot cheaper.

Edited January 6 by boogeez

[AndyGSi]

5 hours ago, boogeez said:

it will be the same as the practice complete automatic bridge I bought but alot cheaper.

Where did you get this and how is it listed?

[boogeez]

On 1/6/2025 at 3:04 PM, AndyGSi said:

Where did you get this and how is it listed?

We have a local website similar to ebay which you can get almost anything. The one I got came straight from china

Edited January 9 by boogeez

[boogeez]

Practicing with the disassembly and assembly of the bridge. Any suggestions ?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KWomrf1LgJg&pp=ygUlcHJhY3R1Y2UgZGlzc2FzZW1ibGUgYXNzZW1ibGUgZXRhMjgyNA%3D%3D

Edited January 12 by boogeez

[boogeez]

Hi.

Hopefully someone can help. The practice bridge was easy to assemble and disassemble. My problem is I can't remove the 2 screws on the bridge of the watch. I'm just scratching the screw head. I tried different sized screwdrivers but it won't budge. What screwdriver size do I use? ty

Thanks in advance.

Edited January 16 by boogeez

[Klassiker]

I think it's a 1.0 or maybe even a 1.2 mm blade you need. It should match the diameter of the head without scratching the surrounding metal. Then you need to dress the taper to fit as deeply as possible into the slot without bottoming out. Once you've done that, use plenty of downward force on your screwdriver, and as much torque as you need to release the screw.

 

[boogeez]

28 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

 Then you need to dress the taper to fit as deeply as possible into the slot 

Thanks for the advice. How do I "dress" the taper?

[Klassiker]

Use a screwdriver sharpening tool and stone, something like this: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/screwdriver-sharpener-with-stone?code=S62166

Then an Arkansas stone to remove the burrs.

[boogeez]

26 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

Use a screwdriver sharpening tool and stone, something like this: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/screwdriver-sharpener-with-stone?code=S62166

Then an Arkansas stone to remove the burrs.

Thanks. Will order it.

[GPrideaux]

If your screwdrivers are new they are probably not sharp enough. A too-blunt driver will sit on the slot rather than in it and be unable to turn the screw. But don't think you should make it as sharp as possible as if it is too sharp it will bottom out and be loose in the slot. In that case it is likely to slip out of the slot as you try to turn it, bruising the screw and potentially scratching the movement. You should be able to see the driver sitting in the slot, and you should not be able to turn it at all without the screw moving.

I've been doing this for about a year, on and off, and am only now coming to properly appreciate the importance of correctly dressed screwdrivers, and the need to be willing to adjust them for different movements so that the stone is starting to get used quite frequently. (More experienced watchmakers will likely have several different sets, each adjusted differently; I have just the one set.)

I have a sharpening tool similar to the one linked above, but I don't find it particularly helpful compared to holding the tool on the stone by hand, and using magnification and feel to make sure it is sitting straight.

[boogeez]

Update on my Oris.

I was finally able to get all needed oils, parts and better screwdrivers( Bergeon 30081 from 0.8-1.6 size). The screws still won't budge. The screwdeivers just slip off. I tried from lower to higher size screwdrivers and nothing happened. Any suggestions please. ty

[boogeez]

On 1/16/2025 at 9:08 PM, GPrideaux said:

If your screwdrivers are new they are probably not sharp enough. A too-blunt driver will sit on the slot rather than in it and be unable to turn the screw. But don't think you should make it as sharp as possible as if it is too sharp it will bottom out and be loose in the slot. In that case it is likely to slip out of the slot as you try to turn it, bruising the screw and potentially scratching the movement. You should be able to see the driver sitting in the slot, and you should not be able to turn it at all without the screw moving.

I've been doing this for about a year, on and off, and am only now coming to properly appreciate the importance of correctly dressed screwdrivers, and the need to be willing to adjust them for different movements so that the stone is starting to get used quite frequently. (More experienced watchmakers will likely have several different sets, each adjusted differently; I have just the one set.)

I have a sharpening tool similar to the one linked above, but I don't find it particularly helpful compared to holding the tool on the stone by hand, and using magnification and feel to make sure it is sitting straight.

I was finally able to get a stone to get the correct fit for my screwdriver. It fits the slot perfectly ( no wobbling, no slippage). Used a firm grip and pressure to remove the screw but still no luck in removing it.  I don't know what else to do.

[AndyGSi]

Last chance is probably penetrating oil.

[boogeez]

What penetrating oil should I use?

A few questions regarding this.

1. Won't the oil go to other places making it necessary to service the entire movement?

2. Is there a way I can cut the head of the screw without damaging other parts from vibration or dust/heat (ie. dremel)?

3. I wanted to try and glue an old screwdriver to the slot using cyanoacrylate then screw it out when it dries. Anyone try this method?

Thanks in advance.

[AndyGSi]

In answer to your question.

1. Yes I'd expect you'd need to do a full service.

2. Don't think so, again without having to do a full service.

3. I wouldn't expect superglue to give you any more purchase on the screw than you've already got.

Not sure if it's already been posted but what are you trying to achieve here?

Edit

Rightly or wrongly you should be able to apply enough force to this screw that would shear the head if it was so tight.

Edited March 7 by AndyGSi

[boogeez]

1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

3. I wouldn't expect superglue to give you any more purchase on the screw than you've already got.

Not sure if it's already been posted but what are you trying to achieve here?

 

I have done something similar to this on "regular sized" seized screws. I place a nut on the head of the seized screw. Place some superglue to glue the screw head to the nut. Wait for superglue to dry. Use a socket wrench to remove the seized screw. ( the screw is then replaced with a new one).

FYI. I already have replacement screws that hold the bridge.

How about touchimg the screwhead for a few seconds using a hot soldering iron?

 

Actually, one of the screw heads is getting lopsided from the pressure and torq I'm applying.

Edited March 7 by boogeez

[AndyGSi]

Regular size seized screw require a lot more torque to snap, and like I said, you should be able to apply enough force to snap these with just a screwdriver.

 

[boogeez]

Thanks for all the help AndyGSi.

I'm just a little afraid to snap the head off only to find out that the screw cannot be backed out using tweezers or something similar.

[Klassiker]

I must admit, this has got me beat. I have no likely explanation why these two screws will not release on a movement which is only 5 years old, in decent condition, with no signs of rust. Sorry to ask, but are you sure you are turning them the right way, i.e. anticlockwise?

The only thing I can suggest is to strip as many of the other components as you can from the mainplate and then use a combination of penetrating oil, impacts and heat from a soldering iron to break down the bonding.

Unless you are prepared to use it as a manual wind you have nothing to lose. The movement is only good for spares as it is.

[AndyGSi]

9 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

I must admit, this has got me beat. I have no likely explanation why these two screws will not release on a movement which is only 5 years old, in decent condition, with no signs of rust

The only explanation I can think of is when the original damage was done to the boss the bridge has twisted and that's what's jamming it.

7 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

The only thing I can suggest is to strip as many of the other components as you can from the mainplate and then use a combination of penetrating oil, impacts and heat from a soldering iron to break down the bonding.

I think the problem is they don't have the knowledge or experience to risk digging into the movement further.

[boogeez]

10 hours ago, Klassiker said:

I must admit, this has got me beat. I have no likely explanation why these two screws will not release on a movement which is only 5 years old, in decent condition, with no signs of rust. Sorry to ask, but are you sure you are turning them the right way, i.e. anticlockwise?

Yes. I'm sure it's lefty loosy/anticlockwise. I am already using alot of torque to loosen it.

10 hours ago, Klassiker said:

Unless you are prepared to use it as a manual wind you have nothing to lose. The movement is only good for spares as it is.

That's what I plan on doing. (Using it as a manual wind).

10 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

The only explanation I can think of is when the original damage was done to the boss the bridge has twisted and that's what's jamming it.

That could explain it.

10 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

I think the problem is they don't have the knowledge or experience to risk digging into the movement further.

I'm just a newbie tinkering with a sellita movement. Will probably send it to an experienced swiss movement watch repair technician. Hopefully he has better luck than I do.

At least I gave my best at this time. Thankfully got better watch tools for use on other watches when the need arises.