Jump to content

Tailstock Runner Specs for Peerless 2


Recommended Posts

I just purchased a Peerless 2 lathe and it is missing the runner and lock for the tailstock. Can anyone provide me with the dimensions and specs for each of these so I can have them machined? I have had zero luck fishing “The Bay” for any used parts that would fit. I want to hold a drilling setup for pivot work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my experience, each tailstock runner is a different size. I needed a new one, and ended up buying some tool steel to make my own. You may need to go that route. The lock is pretty easy to make, just need to make the stock fit the hole, then file the notch in it so it can lock the runner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Randallmtx said:

I just purchased a Peerless 2 lathe and it is missing the runner and lock for the tailstock. Can anyone provide me with the dimensions and specs for each of these so I can have them machined? I have had zero luck fishing “The Bay” for any used parts that would fit. I want to hold a drilling setup for pivot work. 

I know for my 8mm wolf the tailstock runners and sliders that fit inside them are exactly to a mm size. Runners 7mm and sliders are 4mm. I did similar to Caseback for using the 1/8" shank carbide drills. But instead of the ER collet holder I drilled out a 4mm brass tube to the drill shank diameter and depth to use as a sliding drill feed. 

173637997815152432507796154517.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don’t know what part of the world you are in but just seen this on eBay something like this may help but you would need to know the internal size  but if it’s any help the item number is 405458926776, but not me selling it .

IMG_3354.thumb.jpeg.4bdf231e34cdf9af3454ba88378c6b5d.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

From what I've read, Peerless are a little odd with a tailstock runner of 0.300" or 7.62mm. McMaster has O1 steel in 0.302"; it would take some time but you could lap that for a nice fit. For the lock it would be worth asking over on the NAWCC Tool Forum, someone will have one they can measure.

This is the exact size of my Moseley, and the exact route I went, even down to the 01 steel I got from McMaster Carr. I ordered I think 6 feet of 01 tool steel in that "30 caliber" size. That way I can make many different runners, with dedicated attachments. You will need to lap off 2 thousandths off the diameter, which doesn't sound like much, but it takes a while to do it accurately. You'll need to turn it between centers. I have another lathe that I used for this purpose.

Edited by SwissSeiko
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is a drill chuck accurate enough for pivot work or is it best to create a special runner to hold the drill shank with a set screw or something. Any photos or descriptions of an 8mm lathe pivoting setup would be appreciated! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Randallmtx said:

Is a drill chuck accurate enough for pivot work or is it best to create a special runner to hold the drill shank with a set screw or something. Any photos or descriptions of an 8mm lathe pivoting setup would be appreciated! 

I would say that no, a drill chuck is not accurate enough for pivot work. The best practice is to make a drill socket, ideally for each drill bit. And if you are making your own runner, you then can set the taper to a known angle of your choosing, and match the sockets to it, as outlined below:

 

image.thumb.png.826a3712dd88413d5b94c5200a39c442.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, Randallmtx said:

Is a drill chuck accurate enough for pivot work or is it best to create a special runner to hold the drill shank with a set screw or something. Any photos or descriptions of an 8mm lathe pivoting setup would be appreciated! 

ER8 collet holder with 8mm shank directly held in the tailstock of my Wolf Jahn 8mm lathe:

17364387360918493337939424990205.jpg

Nev has a nice setup as well:

Edited by caseback
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Randallmtx said:

Is a drill chuck accurate enough for pivot work or is it best to create a special runner to hold the drill shank with a set screw or something. Any photos or descriptions of an 8mm lathe pivoting setup would be appreciated! 

Thats exactly what i did this morning 🤣,  a little alteration on what I already had. I dismantled a tv stand for one of my customers before xmas and I kept the rods that held it together . Checked last night and they were 7mm.  🤔 Ah-ha I have just the job for you guys. Some junior hacksaw cutting and one 1/8" hole later.....tadahhh...1 very accurate pivot drill runner 👍.

20250109_162125.jpg

1 hour ago, caseback said:

ER8 collet holder with 8mm shank directly held in the tailstock of my Wolf Jahn 8mm lathe:

17364387360918493337939424990205.jpg

Nev has a nice setup as well:

Tried that completely free hand after watching this video of Nev's and some encouragement from him. 0.3mm carbide drill into a barrel arbor, I couldn't believe how actually easy it was...since the carbide drills are renowned for easy breakage.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Pultra uses a leaver tailstock and although the headstock takes 10mm the tailstock takes 8mm and as can be seen by the video is very accurate.

But you could also do it like the Pultra 10 , a runner and different size brass collets like this, it fits in a runner or collet.

IMG_3358.thumb.jpeg.88728485d12710b137dc8c035b62818e.jpeg

i have also made a mount to fit my tool rest.

IMG_2578.thumb.jpeg.103dc7cd68dce0c7955861b86e54fafe.jpeg
just shows there are lots of ways to re pivot or other drill work including all the ways posted above.

Edited by Dell
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
    • Help me out here, but with all the advertising on this site (which I don't mind) wouldn't it pay for itself or even make money for the owner ???
×
×
  • Create New...