1968 Seamaster 300 Homage Build and 565 Service

neevo · January 25

I’ve taken up horology as a way to build this watch. Plus I love tinkering with mechanical things, whether it be stereos or general build stuff around the garage/home.

My original plan was to just build and I did that with both an NH35 watch and Miyota 8215 watch that I wear alternating all the time. Along the way I’ve gotten in to servicing and repair. Servicing originally in preparation for my Omega 565 arriving but also some minor repairs because I was too inexperienced with servicing the NH35.

However everything has been leading to this. My Seamaster 300 build, a la the ones that were being built in Australia before Omega stopped supplying all the parts.

So far I’ve been able to find:

1. 565 movement

2. Omega dial

3. Omega hands

4. Omega flat date disk (only in white so I have a plan to refurbish in black)

The final piece of the puzzle is the case which is proving to be very difficult to find at a reasonable price. So I may look at reproduction on that if I have to.

Today I kicked off the first part. The disassembly and service of the 565 movement I bought. I deliberately looked for a nice movement, partly because I wanted something that was aesthetically pleasing, but also because I was hoping it was in a running state. This one is gorgeous in the flesh!

I took the automatic works off to keep it safe:

Then threw it on the timegrapher to get a baseline read.

Pretty bad and unfortunately it wouldn’t run for long. My hope is that it’s gummed up from not being serviced in a long time.

I’m a little more capable these days with taking movements apart. I have also put some time in to building a proper bench to stop pinging parts in to the ether. I’m finding gentle pressure on the tweezers and a deliberately slow pace is the way to go.

Even so I still had some issues with this part being missing as I took the movement apart.

Turns out it had found its way to sticking to my hand as I was taking the movement apart. Glad I found it before I left the bench, but I think it also means my bench and process is getting more reliable.

Soon I had the whole movement apart:

And the main spring out of the barrel:

I have zero idea about how to check a mainspring, but given this will be a watch I keep for a long time. I’m thinking a new mainspring from Cousins is a good move. What are people’s thoughts?

I have spent the next hour or so carefully manually cleaning all the parts except for the screws, balance/cock and pallet fork. Definitely the right move because whilst the movement looked really clean, I got lots of bits in the cleaning dish, plus the movement is already looking much more sparkly.

This leads me to 2 more questions.

1. The setting lever spring is slightly bent. It’s bent in the direction of applying more downward force. But I’m not sure if this is how it should be. I should be able to straighten it out if needed. Can someone confirm is this bend is correct?

2. I’m not sure about cleaning the reversing wheel for the automatic works. Is it ok to manually clean, put through my ultrasonic cleaner? I have purchased Lubeta v105 (and Epilame) specifically for servicing this movement. So I can properly re-lubricate after as required.

Oh boy this hobby is so frustrating! I need to start planning for the worst case on every operation. I was removing the chaton’s in readiness for ultrasonic cleaning and the spring for the lower one escaped as I was lifting it up. I knew they could escape but not that quickly. Crap!

Is it possible to find a replacement? A quick check of eBay seems to suggest I can drop $60 for a new one. Is this the correct one?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/266803236506?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=7_TMd68qR_q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=pa2bG5LaTsC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Even with my new bench set up I can’t for the life of me find it. Really annoying.

Edited January 25 by neevo
Typos and better title

AndyGSi · January 25

5 hours ago, neevo said:

Is it possible to find a replacement? A quick check of eBay seems to suggest I can drop $60 for a new one. Is this the correct one?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/266803236506?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=7_TMd68qR_q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=pa2bG5LaTsC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Have you checked out Cousins.

Edit the setting bridge should be flat but if you can't sort it there are replacements but if it's
not listed in the Omega packet then chances are it's going to be generic as sold by Cousins.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116339472730?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=116339472730&ufes_redirect=true

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163194075590?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=163194075590&ufes_redirect=true

Edited January 25 by AndyGSi

neevo · January 25

What is the best approach for finding spare parts? When I search Cousins I can’t understand which parts are suitable for the Cal.565

For example those Inca springs. The page for the 175.03 shows the Omega movements but not the 565. Is there a way for me to cross check if it will fit?

Im also having the same issue with a mainspring. For only £5 I’ll order new Inca springs and get a new mainspring at the same time!

For example when I look at the Cousins site I see 4 options for the Cal.565

G62040

GR2628X

GR2533X

GR2535X

Do I have to measure the old spring or is there a logic I’m not understanding as to which you choose?

Both in my cart from Cousins are less than the single Incabloc spring from eBay which is awesome.

Edited January 25 by neevo

Knebo · January 25

Ambitious project, @neevo! Good luck!

18 hours ago, neevo said:

I’m not sure about cleaning the reversing wheel for the automatic works. Is it ok to manually clean, put through my ultrasonic cleaner? I have purchased Lubeta v105 (and Epilame) specifically for servicing this movement. So I can properly re-lubricate after as required.

Yes, just clean as best you can. Ultrasonic is good. Only lubricate with V105, NOT epilame. Rolex reversers need epilame (and no V105), but not these Omega ones.

32 minutes ago, neevo said:

For example when I look at the Cousins site I see 4 options for the Cal.565

G62040

GR2628X

GR2533X

GR2535X

Frankly, I've had lots of bad experiences with several of the generic springs for the 55x Omega series (never had a 56x). I had problems with way-too-large centre coils and springs not actually fitting directly from their ring (i.e. 0.1mm too large..). All solvable issues, but frustrating when you expect plug-and-play. If you have a mainspring winder, reuse the one you have. It looks good.

If you don't have a mainspring winder, I suggest buying 2-3 of these springs and see which one works best.

AndyGSi · January 25

On Cousins if you go to the Brand Parts, Omega and then select the 565 movement.

This is where it shows the 175.02 and then the 175.03 as an alternative.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/omega-movement-parts

It's always best to measure the spring where ever possible and also cross check with other sites which in this case leaves this still a little grey.

image.png.dd51ce8159e0879c60f2ae7177be6e37.png

Edit

I'd say the GR2533X would be my favourite.

image.png.fefd5339b027afc4bbb52113468bedfb.png

image.png.c9edd59eac272f64bfe24a334aca80c4.png

Edited January 25 by AndyGSi

neevo · January 25

Thanks for the excellent advice as always. Good to know on the reversing wheel, I’ll clean it today and use the v105 only.

Yes I have a mainspring winder, so I will reuse the one I have for now. It certainly looks fine without any bends, twists.

I’ll order the Incabloc springs now too.

Cousins say 10 days to Australia so that’s great service and I’m hoping to have this movement back together soon. Fingers crossed I don’t break anything or lose more parts in the meantime.

AndyGSi · January 25

Did you manage to straighten the setting bridge?

neevo · January 26

1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Did you manage to straighten the setting bridge?

Yeah, with some persuasion I got it perfectly flat. Spring steel so it took a bit to get it perfectly flat. I was waiting for it to snap at any moment but got it done without issue.

neevo · January 26

I completely stripped the movement and have slowly been building it back up. In retrospect I wouldn’t take everything off next time. I took everything off, even the clickspring and the mechanisms in the date disk plate. Next time I’d leave them on and put them through the cleaner as they were super fiddle to get back on.

However with some patience and rodico to save any more parts flying off I was able to get to this point:

The pics make it look dirty but in reality it’s gorgeous. Lustrous, shiny and gold!

I was testing the train of wheels and have a wonderful free motion with plenty of backlash. A first for me. Even with about 10 clicks on the spring and no lower jewel in the balance wheel it wants to run. So I’m hopeful for some good amplitude. However for now I’ve let all the power out until I have the lower chaton back in.

I will likely build up the automatic works tonight so I have nearly everything ready to go when my cousins order arrives.

neevo · February 1

I have most of the watch built up and for now and I am just waiting on my Incabloc spring to turn up before I can properly button up the movement.

Ive put the dial on so I can have a dry run test fit of all the parts.

First job was the shorten the stem.

Completely overkill but I used my Deckel S0 which makes short work of the stem and I can put a neat chamfer on the end afterwards using the diamond stone edge:

Its a shame all of this is going to be hidden:

Whilst the movement is in there the original case clamps I got with the movement are not correct. So I need to swap them out for ones I already have on the way. Currently the movement has a tiny bit of wiggle and it’s because the case clamps cannot be orientated to pull the movement tight against the case. The new ones will fix that.

A test fit with my olive Nato strap. I have a few more options on the way so I can decide which one I want to use at the end.

Hands are obviously not on yet as I’m waiting to finish up the movement.

I also had an issue with the quick set date which was not fully rotating the date wheel. It was working fine then it wasn’t and now it’s working fine again. Something for me to triple check before I put it away in the case.

Update:

Found the problem with the date quick adjust. The user!

Turns out the hands were near the midnight part and therefore part of the date mechanism was engaged. Luckily no damage.

Edited February 1 by neevo

neevo · February 5

Postman arrived today with 3 packages. All watch related!

1. 2 new Sydney Watch Strap Co nylon straps in dark grey and arm green. Both to try with the Omega.

2. Incabloc spring for the one I managed to disappear in to another dimension

3. click spring for another project.

So hoping I have everything I need to button this watch up until I find a solution to make the black date wheel with white letters.

RichardHarris123 · February 5

If my arm was green, I'd go to the doctors. Hehe.

Neverenoughwatches · February 5

1 hour ago, RichardHarris123 said:

If my arm was green, I'd go to the doctors. Hehe.

What's a Y between friends lol

That grinder is a cracking piece of kit, I've felt my jealous emotion of the day. No more fancy tools today please people

neevo · February 7

Yeah those Deckels are very hard to come by. I snagged got for a bargain but had a lot of restoration work to get it how it is. Works beautifully though!

Updates on the Omega. My incabloc springs came in and after a tonne of messing around I was able to install one and get the chaton back in place. Thankfully I bought 5 because 1 completely disappeared on me. This was try number 2!

A check on the timegrapher and the results are disappointing. This is with zero running time so far and with the original mainspring, but I was hoping for more. But still a huge improvement from the beginning.

Im going to give it a few hours or so to settle in, then I’ll check a few positions and revert back. I think more effort is required though as I have some issues in some positions.

neevo · February 8

I spent the day grinding powdercoat off a go kart trolley and painting it.

It gave the 565 a few hours at least to settle and I just spent some time with it again to demagnetise it and regulate it.

Here’s what I now have:

DU: +8, 238, 0.0

DD: +7, 240, 0.2

CL: -11, 207, 0.0

CR: -323, 143, 0.1

The movement doesn’t seem too bad with the dial upright but as soon as it’s on its side it’s having issues.

neevo · February 10

I think my gameplay is going to be taking the movement apart again, clean and inspect and see if I can find the source of my issues.

I am wondering if that lost incabloc spring has have found its way in to the movement somehow. That would be an amazing result if it had.

I’m also considering buying a new mainspring as I’m suspecting that is the source of my low amplitude too.

JohnR725 · February 10

On 1/24/2025 at 8:18 PM, neevo said:

tweezers

One other thing is when you're learning is not all tweezers are made the same. I think sometimes people struggle with parts flying away with tweezers that are Not really appropriate for watch repair.

On 2/7/2025 at 3:42 PM, neevo said:

A check on the timegrapher and the results are disappointing. This is with zero running time so far and with the original mainspring, but I was hoping for more. But still a huge improvement from the beginning.

Why are the results disappointing to you? Oh wait I didn't read the entire quote your hoping for better amplitude okay how much better?

On 2/7/2025 at 10:00 PM, neevo said:

It gave the 565 a few hours at least to settle and I

One of the problems when measuring things would be what exactly are you supposed to be getting and when exactly should you be getting whatever it is you're supposed to be getting. In other words you're giving us the numbers after a few hours which is not entirely helpful other then yes you do of a problem.

On 2/7/2025 at 10:00 PM, neevo said:

CR: -323, 143, 0.1

Then yes this definitely looks bad it would be really nice to have a picture of the timing machine what does the timing machine look like when it's doing this. Then a procedure would be nice like for instance Omega recommends winding the watch up and waiting a minimum of 30 minutes all the way up to 90 minutes would be considered fully wound up. Then amplitude for the group is well the group will be upset with you. But Omega only cares about the amplitude 24 hours later Which technically translates to 23 1/2 hours up to 25 hours. So in the vertical positions at 24 hours according to specification down below 160° is the minimum which you failed and the timekeeping has to be within specifications.

Then yes Omega really does have 160° I know the groups going to fall over and have a heart attack when they see that. Typically watches that do not have longer running times like vintage watches are actually rated the going to lower amplitudes. Sub this watch was supposed to run 48 hours then the amplitude would be much closer to 200° or higher.

image.png.33889afe99e318c383b3b5704734475f.png

neevo · February 11

That crown right position is my biggest worry. I’m less worried about 240 amplitude if it holds time. The amp drop after 24 hours is also good at only 20-40 degrees.

So at the moment I’m chasing the issue with that massive drop in amplitude and rate in CR. I’m going to strip it down again and see if anything obvious pops up. I’m really hoping that incabloc spring found its way somewhere.

Edited February 11 by neevo

nevenbekriev · February 11

Well, the logical thinking is that this is not related to cleaning issues as the movement will not get cleaner in CL position than in CR. When there is significant amplitude difference in vertical positions, first thing one has to check is in which position the problem is, but position of the crown is not important here. The important is 'balance above the pallet fork', 'balance under the pallet fork'...

neevo · February 12

On 2/11/2025 at 6:46 PM, nevenbekriev said:

Well, the logical thinking is that this is not related to cleaning issues as the movement will not get cleaner in CL position than in CR. When there is significant amplitude difference in vertical positions, first thing one has to check is in which position the problem is, but position of the crown is not important here. The important is 'balance above the pallet fork', 'balance under the pallet fork'...

I wasn’t really worried about cleaning but I was more worried I have dropped the incabloc spring in the movement somewhere and that was the cause of my issue. Hence strip down, clean, lubricate and make sure that wasn’t the case.

If you think that’s unlikely the cause of my issues I’m happy to do some more testing.

Edited February 12 by neevo

neevo · February 19

So before I go stripping down the movement to investigate further. I took some more readings with images of the crown positions, just in case those more knowledgeable than me can guide me on further testing or see something I can't.

First up; with the movement sitting for a week or so, the smplitude is now in the 240-260 range in the dial up/down positions.

However its the crown left, right and up positions that are causing me grief, with worsening amplitude and rates with each.

Crown right (I think this is the correct name) is by far the worst.

I tried to snap some pics of the balance and train of wheels but on my laptop screen they look awful!

Edited February 19 by neevo

AndyGSi · February 19

Try putting it directly in the timegrapher without the holder and see what results you get.

GPrideaux · February 19

Is it me, or is there something not right about the interface between the third wheel and the sweep seconds pinion? Hard to be sure but it looks like the third wheel is sitting above the ss pinion instead of meshing with it. Might this be a source of additional friction? Easy to eliminate: remove the friction spring and the sweep seconds pinion and test without them installed.

Also, how much should one worry about the pendant right position? A watch worn on the left wrist spends little time in the pendant right position, so good regulation in other positions (esp. pendant down -- arm hanging at your side; pendant left -- arm horizontal with the watch away from the body; and dial up -- checking the time or arm resting on a desk) could result in a watch that keeps good time even if the pendant right position is poor.

nevenbekriev · February 19

Can You please check if amplitude has minimum in vertical when balance is right above the pallet fork? This is something like crown north-east i guess by looking at the movement. Can we see the trace in this position?

neevo · February 19

1 hour ago, GPrideaux said:

Is it me, or is there something not right about the interface between the third wheel and the sweep seconds pinion? Hard to be sure but it looks like the third wheel is sitting above the ss pinion instead of meshing with it. Might this be a source of additional friction? Easy to eliminate: remove the friction spring and the sweep seconds pinion and test without them installed.

Also, how much should one worry about the pendant right position? A watch worn on the left wrist spends little time in the pendant right position, so good regulation in other positions (esp. pendant down -- arm hanging at your side; pendant left -- arm horizontal with the watch away from the body; and dial up -- checking the time or arm resting on a desk) could result in a watch that keeps good time even if the pendant right position is poor.

Yeah I see the same thing! I’m at volleyball right now but I’ll check it when I get home.

I will also look to answer the other questions posed.

Here’s the results for post volleyball testing.

1. Out of the movement holder doesn’t make any difference

2. Seconds pinion is indeed meshed properly. It looks like a poor photo