Jump to content

Lathes projects - multiples! - That don't fit together!


Recommended Posts

I've not had much spare time through November & December, as all the customers jobs that had been waiting for parts or other people through the year all came in a rush!

I did do some browsing on ebay in the evenings though, looking at lathe parts when they were going at what seemed a decently low price..... I now have around 4 2/3 lathes!

The G Boley 6.5mm one I posted early November, which I have since acquired some collets and a carrier chuck for - so just short a tool rest.

An unbranded look-alike of the G Boley in 8mm. That has a bearing problem - but a good tailstock and specifically tool post, that fit the G Boley bed.

A Boley Reform 8mm, complete except the tool rest insert for the tool post. [it looked like a WW style in the photos.]

 

And, based on the comment I had about the problems with parts for non-8mm lathes, multiple WW style items, including two 8mm headstocks,  a tailstock, a cross slide and some flat adapters to mount tool posts or the cross slide. (And a good selection of 8mm collets, fittings & ER11 chuck).

And; three different "WW" beds: An 11" Boley, a 16" long double-foot Pultra and an unbranded ~ 9 1/2" one. Slight problem  though - none of the parts fit to any of them!

 

One of the headstocks is a genuine Webster-Whitcomb, so I'd think that would fit correctly on a standard WW bed. Neither that nor the tailstock will fit as the depth to the underside of the "T" slot is slightly too large, by a fraction of a millimetre. The fittings will also all wobble or rotate slightly when held down to the beds, which to me confirms the bed profiles are wrong, rather than the clamp stud lengths.

The other headstock will fit them, though when clamped the clamp lever is dead in line with the index pin hole, so obviously also not the correct fitting.

 

The beds all have the finished side tapers against the top edge, so they are intended for WW style attachments that use those for location.

It appears they are ground too tall? If a fraction was ground or milled from the top surface, that would both allow the clamp stud head to fit, and the attachments seat slightly further down the taper sides, removing the side play.

One of my engineering customers can skim one down, but I am very puzzled over the incompatibility, as I was under the impression that the WW bed style was standardised, so different manufacturers attachments could be used?

 

The only mechanical fault that concerns me at the moment is with the WW tailstock in the photos below.

I believe the 8mm inner sleeve should move freely, with the knurled centre wheel being a clamp for that. The wheel has just today freed up after many oilings and attempts to move things, but the inner sleeve is still absolutely solid.

I just gave the end of the inner sleeve another tap with a tiny brass hammer - and the whole whole outer sleeve moved; that's now completely out, but the inner is still stuck solid. I've dumped it in a mix of used L&R rinse and 3 in 1 oil - which appears to be working its way well in to the thing through the clamping slots, as there are small mountains of crud appearing underneath those!

 

(I will probably put some or all the non-WW lathes back on ebay eventually, but I'm going try and complete them first if I can - and keep them for now in case I need to make any small parts for the WW gear.)

IMG_4478.jpg

IMG_4479.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s a classic case of being careful to buy complete watchmaker lathes Even though the WW bed is supposed to be the same with all manufacturers but even though they look identical they may not be that’s the reason I have a Pultra it was made in the uk and if I buy anything Pultra  I know it will fit apart from anything for the 15/90 that is easy to see is a lot larger.

If I was a watchmaker lathe manufacturer then I would make it very slightly different to others so people had to purchase my accessories, good business sense.

Dell

IMG_2602.thumb.jpeg.a99f24d6e804592d6cb42b34cc4050c6.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Dell said:

Even though the WW bed is supposed to be the same with all manufacturers but even though they look identical they may not be

Just as I've found 🙄

Complete working lathes in good clean condition generally sell for rather more than I've paid for all the bits I've accumulated separately, though, so I'm not bothered about a bit of extra work to get them up to working condition.

Luckily most of my customers are engineering companies & I can get a bed "adjusted" to suit the fittings. I can probably get it skimmed next week, then hand grind or linish it if the initial finish is not  smooth enough. I think that should  give a similar finish to grinding then curling, with the traces of milling marks acting as oil pockets.

I'll use the longest WW one with the double feet.

 

I've managed to get the tailstock runner apart after an overnight soak in the solvent and oil, then heating it to a bit over 100'C.

There was quite a bit of rust in the back half of it, so it's now in the EDTA rust remover solution to try and clean it up. The brass hammer head is wrecked, but for a good cause.

 

Also, when cleaning up the bearing in what I though was the unbranded V bed one, I found that is is actually another G Boley, so quite happy with that! 

Edited by rjenkinsgb
correction
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
    • Help me out here, but with all the advertising on this site (which I don't mind) wouldn't it pay for itself or even make money for the owner ???
×
×
  • Create New...