Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

in the inheritance of my father this "Galonne" pocket watch surfaced. I assume it's from the first half of the 20th century, and probably it originally belonged to my grandfather.

The movement is not working and I will try to service it, but what is also interesting is the dial. There are two holes in it at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock. I wonder how this kind of damage could have be caused. I don't see any debris from the holes, so I assume that the watch was opened and it was removed. Maybe the watch was dropped and the glass smashed, and the glass was replaced.

Is there any technique to fill these holes in the dial ? I wouldn't aim for a high end reconstruction, just an unobtrusive filling of the holes.

And what material is that dial made of? Could that be ivory?

Thanks

Stephan

PXL_20250119_125337951.jpg

PXL_20250119_125323322.jpg

PXL_20250119_125633617.jpg

Posted

It's an enamel dial.  A brass / copper plate with an enamel coating. Looks like the enamel is chipped where the dial feet are. 

It's a cylinder escapement and I  suspect that the balance staff is broken.  

  • Like 3
Posted
22 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

It's an enamel dial.  A brass / copper plate with an enamel coating. Looks like the enamel is chipped where the dial feet are. 

It's a cylinder escapement and I  suspect that the balance staff is broken.  

Thanks for pointing out the material of the dial.

I will disassemble the movement and check the balance staff.

Posted
On 1/29/2025 at 2:51 PM, stm said:

I wonder how this kind of damage could have be caused.

It doesn't look like anyone addressed this directly. Damage like this to enamel dials is common, almost ubiquitous in watches that have taken a hard drop. The dial attaches to the movement with usually copper wire "feet" - the tips of which are visible in the missing enamel holes. When the watch is dropped then the dial feet will either flex horizontally or be pushed up or vertically and dump some of that energy right into the enamel, which shatters where it contacts the dial feet. They may bend a little dimple into the brass dial too.

And Richard suggested checking the balance staff because a drop strong enough to have done this to the enamel almost certainly will break the staff too. Or at least bend the pivots.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 1/31/2025 at 3:52 PM, mbwatch said:

It doesn't look like anyone addressed this directly. Damage like this to enamel dials is common, almost ubiquitous in watches that have taken a hard drop. The dial attaches to the movement with usually copper wire "feet" - the tips of which are visible in the missing enamel holes. When the watch is dropped then the dial feet will either flex horizontally or be pushed up or vertically and dump some of that energy right into the enamel, which shatters where it contacts the dial feet. They may bend a little dimple into the brass dial too.

Your assessment is correct. I now have begun to disassemble the watch, and on the back of the dial are the dial feet exactly at the positions where the damage is visible on the front side (see photos).

On 1/31/2025 at 3:52 PM, mbwatch said:

And Richard suggested checking the balance staff because a drop strong enough to have done this to the enamel almost certainly will break the staff too. Or at least bend the pivots.

After a first inspection I think the balance staff could be ok, but I'm not yet sure about that.

PXL_20250203_181137528.jpg

PXL_20250203_181218143.jpg

Edited by stm
Typo
Posted
30 minutes ago, stm said:

After a first inspection I think the balance staff could be ok, but I'm not yet sure about that.

It should be pretty easy to tell. If you grab it with tweezers gently, it should not move vertically or horizontally (not more than an imperceptible 0.01-0.02mm) and be able to rotate. If it can wiggle around at all, it is probably broken.

Posted
23 hours ago, mbwatch said:

It should be pretty easy to tell. If you grab it with tweezers gently, it should not move vertically or horizontally (not more than an imperceptible 0.01-0.02mm) and be able to rotate. If it can wiggle around at all, it is probably broken.

I inspected the pivots with a loupe, and they look good. The balance does not move in any perceptible way in the bearing in the movement, and when I stimulate it with a blower it seems to rotate back and forth as expected.

  • Like 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Photos of the pivots.

It was somewhat difficult to take a focussed image of the pivots with the smartphone. I attached an image of one of the pivots where I held a piece of paper behind to get it focussed almost properly. I was not able to get a reasonable photo of the other pivot because it was not possible to get it into focus through the hairspring. But when I look at the other pivot through a loupe I would say it looks the same as the one in the phote.

balance pivot.jpg

Posted
4 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

With the balance removed, does the wheel train move freely? 

Yes it does. The remaining tension of the main spring even rotated the escape wheel slowly after I had removed the balance.

Posted
10 minutes ago, stm said:

The remaining tension of the main spring even rotated the escape wheel slowly

When the balance is removed, It should ideally spin through the escape wheel very quickly, with no real resistance. And if possible, the escape wheel should rebound, reversing direction briefly when the mainspring unwinds to its end. If you see a slowly rotating or sputtering escape wheel, there is an issue in the train such as dirty pivots, bent pivots, dirty jewels/bearings, dirty pinion leaves.

Posted
1 minute ago, RichardHarris123 said:

If so, then the problem is the interplay between the balance and the escape wheel. 

Sorry, I'm confused. Why do you think that there is actually a problem with the balance? @mbwatch suspected that there might be a problem with the balance staff because of the damage on the dial, but so far I didn't see anything that actually looks broken.

1 minute ago, mbwatch said:

When the balance is removed, It should ideally spin through the escape wheel very quickly, with no real resistance. And if possible, the escape wheel should rebound, reversing direction briefly when the mainspring unwinds to its end. If you see a slowly rotating or sputtering escape wheel, there is an issue in the train such as dirty pivots, bent pivots, dirty jewels/bearings, dirty pinion leaves.

It had released all tension from the main spring before I removed the balance. And it may very well be the case that there is dirt all around the movement, it looks to me like it hasn't been service for a long time, if ever at all.

Posted

Oh okay, if you have not cleaned it yet then none of these other free motion tests are relevant or helpful yet. So long as you find no obvious damage in the movement, proceed with cleaning. Then start testing train freedom and balance freedom once you know it is thoroughly clean.

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  Photos please. 
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • This is the old/first(?) way for making a mainspring for an automatic. "Evolution-wise" it is an logical first step forward from a standard spring. Usually these are indeed replaced with a new spring with an integrated/fixed bridle. Lubrication as you would do with any automatic.
    • Thank you. I was informed it was a cheap worthless Lack watch from India. It’s in a small mens watch looks to be around 1930 odd   Cleaned the movement and it’s going really well. Keeps good time.  This is a great site. Mystery solved. I’m obliged. 
    • I'm working on a Schild AS 1250 (a 'bumper' automatic) and it's the first time I've seen a mainspring like this. It has what looks like a regular manual-wind mainspring with a 'hook' at its outer extremity. On a manual-wind watch that 'hook' would engage with a 'hook' in the barrel wall to prevent it from rotating. However, the AS 1250's mainspring does not engage directly with the barrel but rather with a 'sliding bridle' that sits between the mainspring and the barrel wall, and evidently facilitates the slip necessary in an automatic. I'm not sure what advantage this two-piece configuration provides, but it highlights a gap (one of many) in my horological knowledge. I'm not sure if 'hook' is the correct term as used above, but please see photo below to see what I mean. Therefore, two questions please. 1. What is the proper way to lubricate a barrel from an automatic watch with a sliding bridle? My guess is the same as any automatic ms/barrel (e.g, a few dabs of braking grease on the interior barrel wall). What do the experts say? 2. I purchased a Generale Ressorts GR3472X mainspring, made for the AS 1250. It looks like the bridle is included and I don't need to salvage and re-use the old one. Is this a safe assumption? Thanks for the advice. If you have any other wisdom you'd like to share about separate sliding mainspring bridles, I would be very interested. Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...