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Posted

When I first started, I  bought a digital caliper, made the mistake of buying cheap. 

I had forgotten about my vernier calipers, just dug them out.  Some surface rust.  Best way to remove it, I have some mild rust remover.  If I  can remove the rust, do all the moving parts need lubrication, if so with what? 

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Posted

Richard, probably the best would be to strip them down, do the gentle rust remover then remove any discolouration gently with 0000 steel wool. After that I would warm them on a radiator and very lightly give them a once over with 3-in-1, back on the radiator for a bit then wipe them off with a clean rag.

 

Tom

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Posted
1 minute ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I have some 10,000, 8,000 grit wet and dry would that be a good substitute for the wire wool? 

It would likely work, I haven’t tried but I do use the wire wool a fair bit for this sort of stuff.

 

Tom

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Posted

The wire wool won't remove any metal, just the rust. Abrasive paper will remove metal, and best to keep abrasives away from measuring tools- certainly far away from the measuring faces.

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Posted

@nickelsilver, @Neverenoughwatches, do you agree with the rust remover, first and then some light oiling. 

As a side note, I  accidentally stole the calipers year's ago.  I was lecturing in the physics labs at Sheffield University and put them in my pocket.  Forgot, took them out of my pocket to wash my lab coat and never took them back.  They weren't missed as we had about 60 sets. Bad man.

Posted
7 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

What sort of wax?

If I am using wax for tools, I.e. staking frame I use renaissance wax Richard.

Tom

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Posted (edited)

 

1 hour ago, RichardHarris123 said:

@nickelsilver, @Neverenoughwatches, do you agree with the rust remover, first and then some light oiling. 

As a side note, I  accidentally stole the calipers year's ago.  I was lecturing in the physics labs at Sheffield University and put them in my pocket.  Forgot, took them out of my pocket to wash my lab coat and never took them back.  They weren't missed as we had about 60 sets. Bad man.

I would just use the steel wool (I use it with a thin oil), I haven't used many rust removers aside from Naval Jelly, but I think they tend to discolor the remaining steel? These are marked " Stainless/ Hardened" , but obviously even stainless steel can rust too- no idea how it would react to the rust remover. It would be a shame to damage the nice satin finish and fine engraving.

 

Side note- I have a fancy set of digital MItutoyo calipers I got about 25 years ago, with carbide faces and all that. Still crazy accurate (and never turn them off and batteries last like 4 years; the "B" meaning change battery has been on for at least 6 months and still going strong).

 

I also have an old set of Swiss made Etalon vernier calipers, which, like yours, resolve to 0.02mm. I do use them, and find that I can read between the vernier marks and see 0.01mm, and have checked against a good micrometer and those dang things are always spot on! The younger folks don't really know what to do with them, so when my Mits get pinched around the shop I know the Etalons are always free.

Edited by nickelsilver
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Posted
3 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

@nickelsilver, @Neverenoughwatches, do you agree with the rust remover, first and then some light oiling. 

As a side note, I  accidentally stole the calipers year's ago.  I was lecturing in the physics labs at Sheffield University and put them in my pocket.  Forgot, took them out of my pocket to wash my lab coat and never took them back.  They weren't missed as we had about 60 sets. Bad man.

With my joinery gear stored in the garage or any rusty carboot tools I bought that needed a clean up, all I ever used was triple 0 or 0000 wire wool with a little 3 in 1 oil and then wipe back with the same oiled rag I must have used for 20 years or more. 

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Posted
1 minute ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Wouldn't that be quadruple 0? Hehe. 

It would lol, but the old time joiners that brought me up always referred to fine steel wool as triple 0.  Maybe there wasn't a 0000 wire wool back then in the early 80s ? 🤷‍♂️

" oy lad, get some oil and triple 0 on that chisel you left out in the rain, the boss will have your **BLEEP** on a skewer if he sees it "  good times  🤣

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Posted
2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Still crazy accurate (and never turn them off and batteries last like 4 years

This is interesting to learn. Because all the generic cheap digital calipers eat batteries very rapidly. It is my understanding that as long as a battery is installed, they never actually stop their measurement polling loop; the "on/off" button just turns the LCD screen on or off while the electronics continue measuring endlessly for nobody. Almost every time I pull one out and turn it "on" the battery is dead or nearly dead.

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Posted
2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Side note- I have a fancy set of digital MItutoyo calipers I got about 25 years ago, with carbide faces and all that. Still crazy accurate (and never turn them off and batteries last like 4 years; the "B" meaning change battery has been on for at least 6 months and still going strong).

 

I missed this, my cheap rubbish would run down the batteries within an hour.  The batteries ran down when turned off. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I missed this, my cheap rubbish would run down the batteries within an hour.  The batteries ran down when turned off. 

Ouch. Mine at least last about 2 months.

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Posted

I have four sets of the Cheap supermarket calipers, 3 from Aldi and one from Lidl.

Of the four only one eats batteries, with the display blinking after a couple months, although they still read fine for months with the display blinking, which it's battery needs replacing warning.

The other three have never had their batteries changed and they are well over a year old now, and the Lidl one mentions on the box that it had battery saving built in.

So they are not all battery eaters, in my case it's only the oldest set. 

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