Roller table doesn't grip new balance staff

[rehajm]

Since it’s been concluded this is the work of the devil dare I suggest making the indent in the opposite end of the roller…

Edited February 26 by rehajm

[Neverenoughwatches]

2 hours ago, rehajm said:

Since it’s been concluded this is the work of the devil dare I suggest making the indent in the opposite end of the roller…

There is a few reasons I chose the safety roller end rehajm. The table roller had quite a deep countersink in it so I thought the cuts might show better visibly in the small roller. The table roller also had the wider base, so a better platform with which to work from, I thought if it topples over the impulse pin might be crushed, as well the cutting punch is closer to the implulse pin from the table roller end. The cuts are also raised on the flat face so that might stop the roller seating tight up to the hub , though it could be dressed flat again. And last I had it in my mind that the roller would be less likely to drop away from the hub if the shaped cuts inside are working against the sliding direction on the staff ie. Would dig in , like the barbs of a  hook in a fish's mouth ( though I might have that wrong at 5 in the morning ) Beside those I didn't  give any thought to the other end, I would think it also has its merits, the test was mostly to see how easily the weak centre would crush....the thickness didn't change so from that I gather it didn’t deform.

That's not to say a lesser one wouldn't. 

Strangely enough this roller had its bore adjusted before...two dents opposite each other like the detents of a cannon pinion. Maybe any adjustments to it made should have the bore supported from the inside .

Edited February 26 by Neverenoughwatches

[rehajm]

Yah it is an interesting exercise albeit polarizing. I think I’ve done this a couple times with rollers and one with a very hard canon pinion that wouldn’t take a dent. Those punches are quite sharp and can make an impression just by pressing them into the part. The lightest of taps will bring up the burs that secure it. If there’s concern over crushing the roller I think one is working too hard. I don’t think there’d be a problem reversing it with a smoothing broach and a bit of dressing to the edge…

[SwissSeiko]

On 2/25/2025 at 3:15 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

 but destruction would be just around the corner. 

everytime I start manipulating a hairspring

Edited February 27 by SwissSeiko

[Neverenoughwatches]

On 2/26/2025 at 1:16 PM, rehajm said:

Those punches are quite sharp and can make an impression just by pressing them into the part. The lightest of tap

That is definitely true. Whenever the stake touched the roller while centering it to the roller it woukd grab hold leaving really small cuts.

52 minutes ago, SwissSeiko said:

everytime I start manipulating a hairspring

You and me both lol.

How's those projects coming on ?you haven't updated us for a while.

[SwissSeiko]

3 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

You and me both lol.

How's those projects coming on ?you haven't updated us for a while.

They are coming along. Ive been busy with services. And a part I was making for the lapping table came loose in the lathe and got destroyed, so I have to remake it. I did just get a quick change tool post for my lathe, and had to make an adapter for that, but the projects should be much faster now

[Neverenoughwatches]

2 hours ago, SwissSeiko said:

They are coming along. Ive been busy with services. And a part I was making for the lapping table came loose in the lathe and got destroyed, so I have to remake it. I did just get a quick change tool post for my lathe, and had to make an adapter for that, but the projects should be much faster now

Be good to see them through their progression,  I'm particularly interested in the lapping table. I have a small one in mind, made from a cheap piece of equipment used for something other than machining .  Its about time I got stuck into doing stuff with my bigger lathe as well.

Edited February 27 by Neverenoughwatches