Jump to content

Clock Double Wind


Recommended Posts

Hello All,

I am a new member.  I own 3 clocks that my dad built, with pendulum movements.  They are 30-40 years old.  I had them professionally cleaned when dad first gave them to me, 20 years ago.  One of them stopped working.  I looked at some YouTube videos and tried my hand at cleaning and lubricating  it.  It keeps time, ticks and chimes, but it does something strange.  It uses cranked weights for power.  I used to get a full week fromm one winding.  Now I have to wind it twice a week!  How could it do that without running twice as fast?  How is that regulated?  Thanks for any advice you may give me.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know how useful this picture is.  The clock is put back together.  It is a german movement, says "jewelless" on the plate.  It was wound Sturday, you can see how it will never make it to this weekend at this rate of drop.  I'm just baffled that it keeps good time despite this.

clock.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you have is a Vienna Regulator Strike.  Normal duration 8 days. What can determine the duration is the length of the lines. When the clock is fully wound the barrel should have the gut wound in every grove of the barrel. Here is a photo of what I mean see the barrel full of line. Check yours and tell me what yours look like. If it isn't the line then we need to look at the movement. I notice yours is not level on the wall. Have you set it up correctly. 

 

img_8918.jpg

Edited by oldhippy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the lines are wound onto the drums with each wrap touching, as they should.  There is a plastic caul along the top half of the drum to guide each wrap as it's being cranked. The photo is a trick of perspective.  I checked it with a carpenter's level.  Across the top, I get it dead level, along the sides, I get a very slight tilt.  Strange because I used the same screw holes into the wall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are the barrels both the same diameter?  They may have been put back in the clock in the wrong places. For example, the strike barrel is where the going barrel should be.  Wont make any difference to the speed of the clock whether its on the wall straight or not, although it may cause it to stop if not in beat.  The clock will only run as fast as the escapement will allow it, determined by the correct length pendulum.  The rate of fall of the weight will be determined by the diameter of the barrel and gearing of the going train.  The gut line must fill all the grooves in the barrel when fully wound (weight in its highest wound position) to allow it to provide the correct number of barrel rotations for the weight drop distance;  this in turn determines how long the clock will run on a single wind.

Edited by MikeEll
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, PeterCollin said:

Well the lines are wound onto the drums with each wrap touching, as they should.  There is a plastic caul along the top half of the drum to guide each wrap as it's being cranked. The photo is a trick of perspective.  I checked it with a carpenter's level.  Across the top, I get it dead level, along the sides, I get a very slight tilt.  Strange because I used the same screw holes into the wall.

So you need to look at the movement such as pivot holes for wear and even the pivots and the teeth as they could be bent. Does it stop at the same place? these clocks have a dead beat escapement so there is no recoil so check pallet faces and most important escape wheel teeth and pivots.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the only way of getting to the bottom of this is to see the movement. Please take nice clear photos to start around the barrels and how and where the lines are tied and the movement showing both plates and train work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are pictures from either side.  Can't do better without taking it apart.  Just to recap.  Clock ticks and chimes, keeps good time, doesn't stop until weights drop all the way.  Neither weights nor drums were swapped. 

movement2.jpg

movement1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is absolutely filthy so it needs to be all taken apart and checked for wear in the pivot holes and the pivots.  It is not a proper Vienna Regulator Strike so disregard it having a deadbeat escapement. It looks to be German.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

It is absolutely filthy so it needs to be all taken apart and checked for wear in the pivot holes and the pivots….

I agree. While it’s in pieces I’d also count the teeth on the wheels and pinions from the barrel to the center wheel on the going train.  That will allow you to calculate exactly how long its designed to run for on a single wind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
    • Help me out here, but with all the advertising on this site (which I don't mind) wouldn't it pay for itself or even make money for the owner ???
×
×
  • Create New...