Jump to content

How to properly remove the hands of a GMT 126720 if stem is broken and stuck inside


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I'm attempting to fix a GMT 126720 that the stem got broken inside, I already try tapping while holding the release button to see if it drops by itself but not luck so far, I will attempt the magnet method but I doubt It would work either, so mostly planning on disassembling and servicing the watch. What would be the right way to remove the hands if I cannot move them to the 12 o'clock position? stop the watch and see where the hands were before removing them and then set them in the same position when putting them back? Thanks in advance for any advice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Welcome to the forum.

How much of the stem is remaining and can you post photo showing this and also the movement around where the stem enters.

 

Thank you!! 
 

its pretty far inside, I will post a photo when I get a chance. But mostly looking to service the movement regardless of the stem stuck inside, I’m just wondering of the position of the hands at the time of removing them, and installing them back in without the possibility of moving them to the 12 o clock as usual

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It isn't 100% necessary to have the hands at 12. They can be facing opposite to each other so you are gripping the underside of the hub of the hands and not the hand itself, if that makes sense

Edited by Jon
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

If you're doing a full service then everything is going to have to be realigned anyway.

I've got some crowns with a very long tube I use to get a grip on the stem and remove it.

Mmm that’s a good idea but mine it’s just the tip so no threads at all, I will try to remove the stem first without tearing the whole thing first see if I can get it out, thanks for the tips 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Jon said:

It isn't 100% necessary to have the hand at 12. They can be facing opposite to each other so you are gripping the underside of the hub of the hands and not the hand itself, if that makes sense

I get what you mean, I’m not worried about where to remove them underside of the hands, just the positions at the time of reinstalling them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Can you still see the stem inside the case.

If you can then the other option is rodico on the end of thin tweezers to grip it and slide it out in stages.

You think rodico would grip that much? More than a magnet could? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Gio said:

I’m not worried about where to remove them underside of the hands, just the positions at the time of reinstalling them

It doesn't matter when you remove them, the ratio of the various wheels are the same, replace them at 12 o'clock. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would try a winding stem extender that is oversized. Ream out the extender to get rid of the thread so it able to go over the broken stem like a sheath. Once that is reamed accordingly, put some superglue inside the stem extender and onto the broken stem.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure I follow along here. In situations where I've had a broken stem, I've removed the stem during the disassembly of the keyless works. Of course, if the stem hinders the movement from being extracted from the case, that's a different situation.

Ah, I think I get it! The OP only wants to replace the stem, not service it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/5/2025 at 5:08 AM, VWatchie said:

I'm not sure I follow along here. In situations where I've had a broken stem, I've removed the stem during the disassembly of the keyless works. Of course, if the stem hinders the movement from being extracted from the case, that's a different situation.

Ah, I think I get it! The OP only wants to replace the stem, not service it?

thanks for the reply, I got it working, I was just trying to remove the stem inside the keyless works by partially disassembling the movement to get there, but since I was not able to move the hands to the 12 o'clock before removing them I was wondering what was the right procedure on a GTM, but I got it, just removed them as they were and at the time of installing them just move them until date changes and installed them at the 12o'clock and it worked perfect, I though it was a bit different with the GMT hand.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think the oring is to press the movement ring down firmly to prevent any wiggle room. A wave washer might do a better job than the oring as the rubber will eventually deform.
    • Got it.  Way over my pay grade.  The clock is keeping time perfectly and we have it in a place of honor. Thanks again for all your help. Here is a pic of the back of the clock.  Just beautiful
    • I see - I have some materials in tubes with rims and some without. But none of my other stuff is arranged vertically like this, always laying in some sort of tray.   The insert feels like it is probably like thick balsa wood, glued in. It is not stained or finished in any way, supporting your theory. Which changes my thesis from "Wow old materials were so well packaged" (they still were) to "Wow someone loved these timing washers enough and kept them close enough at hand to make a custom box"
    • That was my first guess, but there is the stem passing through the second barrier.  I did not investigate to see if there were some sort of oring there. I am fixing this for a friend.  He noticed the watch was running slow, so he opened it up to "fix" it.  When he put the back on, the inner oring twisted and got in the way of the autowind weight.  I had to replace both orings.
    • Does that mean it's a fake? I had a look on SERIAL-NUMBER-DECODER.CO.UK which confirms that the serial number 5472134 refers to 1936, but the website indicates that "I have estimated dates for years where I couldn't find any information so please consider this a guide only, it should be within a couple of years either way". I had a try with another website which indicates 1937 and a third one which indicates 1936 (approximately).  May I still hope that it's a real Longines? If not ... I've been to quick in my decision🥴
×
×
  • Create New...