Seiko 6306-7000 Diver

[nico]

The Seiko 6306-7000, first so-called "Turtle", was produced in 1976, shortly replaced by the 6306-70001.

The model I'm servicing is from July 1976. The known issues were a stem malfunction and obvious rusted hands.

As I haven't taken an worthy picture of the initial state, here is a picture from today, with the original and dirty glass but restored hands.

 

Before opening it an additional issue appeared ; the watch suddenly stopped. Due to a crushed gasket and maybe old greases, a black paste migrated in the movement, between a pinion teeth.

 

For the movement my cleaning process was pretty simple and I obtained good results.

I pre-cleaned in warm water with soap, q-tips and tooth-brush.

After drying the parts, I washed them in lighter fluid, then inspected them one by one and cleaned them again when needed.

Final rinse with IPA.

 

Now the stem issue.

On the left the stem from a 6309, on the right my 6306 stem

The spring is rusted, the flat washer is missing.

In fact, the washer was probably lost, and a ugly workaround generated more issues ; on the inner side of the crown, nibbling the crown gasket...

I have good results by using oxalic acid to remove the rust.

 

Questions:

1. what kind of material could I use to make a new flat washer ?

2. I plan to heat the spring, stretch it a bit, then temper it. Is it a good idea ?

I made my first Cousins order, with new oils and some mainspring (thanks @Knebo for the inspiration )

 For the 630x movements I ordered a GR25341X for ETA and a less expensive Seiko S6319770.

As the Seiko one needed a cleaning, I choose to give a try with the GR25341X. A bit tight for the arbor, I had a hard time to fit all in the barrel.

I also used the Moebius 8217 I ordered at the same time, but I was surprised that it doesn't contains any graphite.

Question : Does this Moebius 8217 replaces well other barrel greases for automatic watches ? What are the practical differences ?

 

Clean each tooth on the date wheel:

 

And finally the hands cleaning. I have taken precautions not to touch or inhale the dust by working in a box with finger cots. After my web search the lume is maybe Promethium, or maybe Tritium.

Before cleaning :

After :

Tools used :

Thanks to my shoemaker for the leather

I tried to use some IPA drops but I think this doesn't help.

As I want to keep the original lume color, I will not attempt to relume them (but I'd like to try this one day).

So for now I don't know if I can improve the two issues I see on this hands :

1. remove/bleach the stains on the lume

2. polish the corroded metal

 

[rehajm]

…I’ve done a couple 6309s and invested the 10 quid on model specific gasket sets…how about this posted earlier today if you want to diy?

 

[nico]

3 hours ago, rehajm said:

…I’ve done a couple 6309s and invested the 10 quid on model specific gasket sets…how about this posted earlier today if you want to diy?

 

Nice hack, thanks !

[AndyGSi]

On a watch like this I'd just go for an original O-Ring.

[nico]

Oh thanks ! This one is very expensive just for a gasket crown

The compatible gaskets for the back and the bezel are at less than 2 pounds for 3 pieces !

I ordered on Ali an assortment of gaskets and one should fit for the crown. A bad idea ? When I saw the state of the mainspring (see picture above), I ask myself if it's a good idea to buy old original gaskets...

I have in mind to ask a Seiko vendor to test the sealing.

 

I wonder if I should mind the dots outside the line. I had a jewel with something like a very very little kind of scratch, I decided to let it and analyse if this can have an impact on the performances. Maybe it is this dots outside the lines ?

[AndyGSi]

49 minutes ago, nico said:

The compatible gaskets for the back and the bezel are at less than 2 pounds for 3 pieces !

For a watch of this value as a minimum I'd go for a gasket set from a reputable supplier, especially if you're thinking about having it tested.