Can I put a new spring bar hole into my watch strap to get it to align properly?

[Xonax]

I have a Wise Hitman. The rubber strap it came with was of a poor quality - a little slimey, uncomfortable to the touch, and really made me feel icky wearing it. I grabbed a rubber strap from one of the online sites. This strap fits the watch perfectly, strap follows the lugs, hugs the watch just right - without the spring bars. When attached with a spring bar, the strap is too far from the watch, leaving an unsightly gap and the straps can flip around (they both can use shards of toothpicks to help fill the hole as well.) While it's tough to see exactly where, I can tell if I put a new hole through the strap it would be snug against the watch. The watch has a thick area I would go through - but how do I put a hole into the rubber strap? I've read I can freeze the strap for help. My only next guess would be a vise and a drill with a 1mm drill bit? Is this the way to do it? I read someone suggesting heating a metal rod (not sure where I'd find that.)

I've also read to just not do it and get another strap, but besides not being able to find another strap that would match the way I want and not wanting to spend any more on this watch - I don't know what strap to look for that would make it fit out of the box. This strap already had a very large list of models it is known to work with, and given how well it fits against the case I can only imagine the issue is more with where the company places the lug holes than the strap itself. I could look into getting new lug holes on the case drilled, but I would want to have that done by a professional. And I do not know where to start with that.

What are my options?? Am I more or less crazy??

[AndyGSi]

Welcome to the forum.

We need to see photos of the watch along with the strap.

[Xonax]

I can take a picture of the area I would want to put a hole through the rubber, though I can't imagine how that would help with the questions I have.

Has anyone put a hole through a rubber strap before, and if so how did you achieve it?

Is there a recommended company I can send my watch to to get new holes drilled into the lugs?

Is there a way to shop for a strap based on measurements/lug hole distance to the case?

[AndyGSi]

We need to see photos of the case so we can advise if another strap is available.

Photos of the strap you're working with will also show what's not working.

[Xonax]

Do you need a photo to tell me if you have ever drilled a hole for spring bars through a rubber strap before?

I don't understand why everything has to become a fight. I'm asking questions that do not require photos. If I did provide photos, I don't know what information they would provide you with. I cannot provide a photo that illustrates this issue properly. The strap is a normal strap that fits most watches. It seems this watch, the name of which I've already provided, does not have the same depth on its spring bar lugs as is typical. With the strap on, there is a gap between it and the watch. Do you want to see that gap? I can show you a photo of that gap - but what would that prove? I can show you a photo of the strap off the watch - but I am not sure what that would prove. It's a standard flared strap. It's going to look like any number of straps look. I can show you where I would drill the hole - but you have not asked for that photo.

"Give me photos" is not clear enough instructions. I've explained to you what is not working. I can go take 20 photos, but you're going to need to explain what you are looking for. This is a specific issue regarding millimeter discrepancies. And none of the questions I've asked - which I outlined in my last post - require photographic evidence.

Simple - have you drilled a hole in a strap before, do you recommend any business to drill spring bar holes into the lugs, and is there a strap measurement system I'm not aware of for straps that are not the standard size? I can provide photos, I can provide measurements, I can break out the calipers - but I need better direction that ignoring everything I write and saying "send photos" like a dating site.

Treat me like a fellow human being. That's all I ask.

[tomh207]

I definitely haven’t drilled a hole in a strap of any kind before and doubt it can be done, these are made during the moulding process.

people are asking for photos so they can see what you are dealing with and if they can figure out a way to help you.

you have been treated politely and with respect, unlike your response here.

I suggest you take a deep breath and try to moderate your frustration talking to us here.

 

regards

 

Tom

[LittleWatchShop]

46 minutes ago, Xonax said:

Do you need a photo to tell me if you have ever drilled a hole for spring bars through a rubber strap before?

No, I have never drilled a hole for spring bars through a rubber strap before.  There...done.

[AndyGSi]

I suggest if you don't like a simple response from someone trying to offer help then you go elsewhere.

[LittleWatchShop]

51 minutes ago, Xonax said:

do you recommend any business to drill spring bar holes into the lugs

This guy can do anything. Prepare to pay.

53 minutes ago, Xonax said:

and is there a strap measurement system I'm not aware of for straps that are not the standard size

No

53 minutes ago, Xonax said:

a dating site

No, we don't want to date you.  But, thanks

Grok has your answer.  Should have asked him first.

Modifying a rubber watch strap to fit your Wise Hitman snugly without spring bars is doable, but it requires precision to avoid ruining the strap. Since the replacement strap fits well without spring bars but leaves a gap with them, punching a new hole closer to the watch case sounds like a solid plan. Here’s how to approach it, addressing your ideas and concerns:

Freezing the strap: Freezing can make rubber slightly more rigid, which might help stabilize it for punching or drilling, but it’s not strictly necessary and could make the material brittle if overdone. If you try this, wrap the strap in a cloth, place it in a sealed bag, and freeze for 30–60 minutes. Let it warm up slightly before working to avoid cracking.

Drilling with a vise and 1mm bit: Drilling can work, but it’s overkill and risky for a rubber strap. A 1mm drill bit might tear the material or create an uneven hole, especially if the strap is thick. Holding it in a vise could also deform the rubber unless you pad it carefully. I’d avoid this unless you’re confident in your setup and have a steady hand.

Heated metal rod: This method—using a heated rod to melt a hole—can work for rubber but is messy and hard to control. It risks burning the strap, leaving jagged edges, or releasing unpleasant fumes. Finding a rod (like a thin nail or wire) isn’t the issue; the technique is just less precise than punching. If you go this route, heat a clean metal rod over a flame until red-hot, work in a ventilated area, and practice on scrap rubber first. But I don’t recommend it here.

Best approach—using a leather punch or watch strap punch: The cleanest, most reliable way to add a hole is with a dedicated tool designed for straps, like a handheld leather punch or a watch strap hole punch. These are inexpensive (around $10–20 online), and they create smooth, professional-looking holes without tearing. Here’s a step-by-step:

Mark the spot: Put the strap on the watch without spring bars, position it exactly where it hugs the case, and mark where the new hole should go with a fine-tip permanent marker or a pin. Double-check the alignment to ensure it’s centered and will pull the strap snugly against the lugs.

Stabilize the strap: Place the strap on a firm, flat surface like a cutting board or a block of wood. If it’s thick, you can sandwich it between two pieces of scrap leather or cardboard to keep it steady, but don’t clamp it too tightly to avoid deforming the rubber.

Punch the hole: Use a 1.5mm or 2mm punch (match the size of the existing spring bar holes). Press the punch straight down with steady pressure, twisting slightly if needed. A quality punch will cut through thick rubber cleanly. If the strap is frozen, it might punch more easily, but room temperature usually works fine.

Test and clean: Check the hole’s fit with the spring bar. If it’s slightly off, you can carefully widen it with the punch. Clean any debris with a damp cloth, and test the strap on the watch to confirm it sits flush with no gap.

Why this works: A punch is designed for materials like leather and rubber, giving you control and a clean result. It’s safer than drilling (no tearing) and cleaner than a heated rod (no burning). You can find these tools on sites like Amazon, eBay, or watch-specific retailers like Esslinger or Strapcode.

Alternative: If punching feels daunting or you don’t want to buy a tool, take the strap to a watchmaker or cobbler. They can punch a precise hole for a few bucks, saving you the hassle. Since you’ve already got toothpicks shimming the spring bars, you know the fit is close—getting that hole right should eliminate the gap and flipping issue.

Final tip: If the strap still doesn’t feel right after this, consider a higher-quality rubber strap from a reputable brand like Everest or RubberB. Some straps are just poorly designed for certain lug shapes, and the Hitman’s case might be picky. But punching a new hole should do the trick for now. Let me know if you need help finding a punch or sourcing a strap!

[Neverenoughwatches]

1 hour ago, Xonax said:

Do you need a photo to tell me if you have ever drilled a hole for spring bars through a rubber strap before?

I don't understand why everything has to become a fight. I'm asking questions that do not require photos. If I did provide photos, I don't know what information they would provide you with. I cannot provide a photo that illustrates this issue properly. The strap is a normal strap that fits most watches. It seems this watch, the name of which I've already provided, does not have the same depth on its spring bar lugs as is typical. With the strap on, there is a gap between it and the watch. Do you want to see that gap? I can show you a photo of that gap - but what would that prove? I can show you a photo of the strap off the watch - but I am not sure what that would prove. It's a standard flared strap. It's going to look like any number of straps look. I can show you where I would drill the hole - but you have not asked for that photo.

"Give me photos" is not clear enough instructions. I've explained to you what is not working. I can go take 20 photos, but you're going to need to explain what you are looking for. This is a specific issue regarding millimeter discrepancies. And none of the questions I've asked - which I outlined in my last post - require photographic evidence.

Simple - have you drilled a hole in a strap before, do you recommend any business to drill spring bar holes into the lugs, and is there a strap measurement system I'm not aware of for straps that are not the standard size? I can provide photos, I can provide measurements, I can break out the calipers - but I need better direction that ignoring everything I write and saying "send photos" like a dating site.

Treat me like a fellow human being. That's all I ask.

Firstly i think you need calm down, and secondly you need to understand that Andy is trying to help you. A picture tells a thousand words, supplying us with a photo explains more than you can tell and is standard practice.  I can't ever remember anyone arguing over it.

[AndyGSi]

29 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Grok has your answer.  Should have asked him first.

Who's Grok and does he/she show how this is done as I can't see how a leather punch would go through s 20mm wide strap.

[LittleWatchShop]

29 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

Who's Grok and does he/she show how this is done as I can't see how a leather punch would go through s 20mm wide strap.

Grok is an AI search tool.  Like Chatgpt.  I notice the anomaly with the leather punch suggestion.  Having fun with the guy.

[AndyGSi]

5 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Grok is an AI search tool.  Like Chatgpt.  I notice the anomaly with the leather punch suggestion.  Having fun with the guy.

I thought it strange that there were 2, we'll call them people to keep it polite, who didn't know how to find the correct strap.

[LittleWatchShop]

The good thing about this thread (at least for me) is that I learned about Wise watches.  Some nice looking affordable stuff with some quality (IMO) movements.

[Klassiker]

2 hours ago, Xonax said:

Do you need a photo to tell me if you have ever drilled a hole for spring bars through a rubber strap before?

I don't understand why everything has to become a fight. I'm asking questions that do not require photos. If I did provide photos, I don't know what information they would provide you with. I cannot provide a photo that illustrates this issue properly. The strap is a normal strap that fits most watches. It seems this watch, the name of which I've already provided, does not have the same depth on its spring bar lugs as is typical. With the strap on, there is a gap between it and the watch. Do you want to see that gap? I can show you a photo of that gap - but what would that prove? I can show you a photo of the strap off the watch - but I am not sure what that would prove. It's a standard flared strap. It's going to look like any number of straps look. I can show you where I would drill the hole - but you have not asked for that photo.

"Give me photos" is not clear enough instructions. I've explained to you what is not working. I can go take 20 photos, but you're going to need to explain what you are looking for. This is a specific issue regarding millimeter discrepancies. And none of the questions I've asked - which I outlined in my last post - require photographic evidence.

Simple - have you drilled a hole in a strap before, do you recommend any business to drill spring bar holes into the lugs, and is there a strap measurement system I'm not aware of for straps that are not the standard size? I can provide photos, I can provide measurements, I can break out the calipers - but I need better direction that ignoring everything I write and saying "send photos" like a dating site.

Treat me like a fellow human being. That's all I ask.

A fellow human being would realise, OK, I'm new here, asking more experienced members for help. Maybe it would be a good idea to provide them what they are asking for, so that they can understand the problem better.

After all's said and done, you might be disappointed with the help we can offer, but don't lash out because the first answer you get isn't the easy solution you were expecting.

[HectorLooi]

As a retired dentist, I've drilled into a lot of stuff, including elastomeric substances. I had drills that turn as fast as 400,000 rpm and as slow as 1 rpm.

Rubbers don't drill very well. They tend to distort under pressure and the hole will end up... not very nice.

Watch this video first.

Rubber is better cut with a blade than drilled with a twist drill or abrasive like a diamond drill. In the above video, a brass rod was used but your case, I think a large bore stainless steel hypodermic needle would work better. Maybe a 1.5mm needle. Cut off the sharp tip and file the inside surface of the tube until a sharp, cutting edge is obtained. Then mount the needle in pin vise and bore the rubber by hand, constantly checking that the bore hasn't drifted.

You might need several straps as guinea pigs before succeeding. 

Hope this helps. And please treat everyone with respect and dignity.

Shalom.

[RichardHarris123]

Just got home; so only just seen this.  Since when did five years olds join the forum?

[Neverenoughwatches]

Lets start over, with better co-operation please. It's an unusual question, help us to help you. Our needs are small, just oblige/humor us with a picture. 

7 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

As a retired dentist, I've drilled into a lot of stuff, including elastomeric substances. I had drills that turn as fast as 400,000 rpm and as slow as 1 rpm.

Rubbers don't drill very well. They tend to distort under pressure and the hole will end up... not very nice.

Watch this video first.

Rubber is better cut with a blade than drilled with a twist drill or abrasive like a diamond drill. In the above video, a brass rod was used but your case, I think a large bore stainless steel hypodermic needle would work better. Maybe a 1.5mm needle. Cut off the sharp tip and file the inside surface of the tube until a sharp, cutting edge is obtained. Then mount the needle in pin vise and bore the rubber by hand, constantly checking that the bore hasn't drifted.

You might need several straps as guinea pigs before succeeding. 

Hope this helps. And please treat everyone with respect and dignity.

Shalom.

Kind of like a long hole punch. 

[oldhippy]

This is like how long is a piece of string. Without pictures how can we help you.  

[JohnR725]

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Without pictures how can we help you.  

Easy we don't need pictures. It's always nice when the person asking the question already has all of the answers which does bring up the problem of why are they even asking the question but all their asking is is how to drill a hole in a piece of rubber no pictures are needed here's a link it explains it's very simple.

https://toolscompendium.com/how-to-drill-a-hole-in-rubber/

 

[oldhippy]

43 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Easy we don't need pictures. It's always nice when the person asking the question already has all of the answers which does bring up the problem of why are they even asking the question but all their asking is is how to drill a hole in a piece of rubber no pictures are needed here's a link it explains it's very simple.

https://toolscompendium.com/how-to-drill-a-hole-in-rubber/

 

There is no mention of the type of case. All the poster says it was a rubber strap. 

[LittleWatchShop]

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

There is no mention of the type of case. All the poster says it was a rubber strap.

It is a Wise Hitman.  I suspect this link I shared.  Most likely, the poster has had enough of us and long since hit the road.  Now it is our own little party.

[JohnR725]

19 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

There is no mention of the type of case. All the poster says it was a rubber strap. 

Isn't this a rather amusing discussion?

If you read the original question the original posting person feels he's given us enough information even if it's a bit confusing? I highlighted some things in the quote down below first we find out that the replacement strap is absolutely perfect. But then we find out the replacement strap is not perfect there is an unsightly gap So it's not absolutely perfect it has to modified.

 

On 4/10/2025 at 7:55 PM, Xonax said:

have a Wise Hitman. The rubber strap it came with was of a poor quality - a little slimey, uncomfortable to the touch, and really made me feel icky wearing it. I grabbed a rubber strap from one of the online sites. This strap fits the watch perfectly, strap follows the lugs, hugs the watch just right - without the spring bars. When attached with a spring bar, the strap is too far from the watch, leaving an unsightly gap and the straps can flip around (they both can use shards of toothpicks to help fill the hole as well.) While it's tough to see exactly where, I can tell if I put a new hole through the strap it would be snug against the watch. The watch has a thick area I would go through - but how do I put a hole into the rubber strap?

Then the type of material for the case appears to be two separate types of stainless steel depending upon how much you paid. At least that's my guess as to why they have separate types.

https://wisetimepiece.com/collections/for-mens

 

To understand what the problem is we need pictures except we apparently do not need pictures as all of this is really easy to grasp I guess unless you're stupid. So for all the stupid people In the world like me who need pictures to grasp the problem I found this pictures.

So from the website we find out the strap size should be 20 mm. They do sell replacements and from the image I got of the replacement you can see part of the problem the end of the strap is form fit to the case which is why it fits so nice and tight and the spring bars are quite a distance back.

 

 

The location of the spring bar holes becomes a problem for instance image on the left is for a leather strap notice the gap? Then on the right-hand side is their form fit strap and as you can see there is zero gap.

 

[LittleWatchShop]

What the poster did not understand is that this is a watch porn site.  We want to see pictures.  Frankly, I did not appreciate this the first few weeks I joined (back in Dec 2020). But @JohnR725 set me on the path of the straight and narrow, the true course of rectitude.

[AndyGSi]

It wasn't clear to me on the first read if he was even using a curved end strap, maybe I should have read it more throughly but never expected that response.

I did go afterwards and look at the offending watch and noticed how far the spring bar is from the case.

I've had similar issues in the past and on most occasion found a strap that worked.

On the occasions that I couldn't I used a heated syringe needle in a drill press to melt
a new hole through the strap and then used a spring bar tube to fill the old hole.

The thing I find strange is to pay $300+ for a watch and then say the strap is cheap which I think says a lot about the brand.

My pet hate about these micro brands is how they always show inflated prices with large discounts to make people think they're getting a bargain.