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Posted

Hello community, I have posted about this a month ago but wasnt sure if I replied to the previous post it would show everyone. 

 

I havent been able to identify this exact movement therefore I havent been able to figure out which click spring and how it actually sits on this movement. I bought a set of 100 pcs on Cousins but i cannot figure out what shape it has to have or where.   

 

It doesnt have a little whole lite other movements, its not a long shaped one that sits under the ratchet wheel.  Here are a few phtoos. Thats all i need to be able to finish this one, once I figure it out I will re clean and re oil it since its been there for a month with me trying to finalize it here and there .

 

Thank you for your help.

 

 

I have tried one that is bent on one side /lateral and other side is either up or down but however I put it , it doesnt spring the click back

IMG_25BB7B80-C4C6-4C93-AC51-9D80AE31F98E 2.JPEG

IMG_0603 2.JPG

IMG_0605 2.JPG

Posted
2 hours ago, Arigato said:

Hello community, I have posted about this a month ago but wasnt sure if I replied to the previous post it would show everyone. 

 

I havent been able to identify this exact movement therefore I havent been able to figure out which click spring and how it actually sits on this movement. I bought a set of 100 pcs on Cousins but i cannot figure out what shape it has to have or where.   

 

It doesnt have a little whole lite other movements, its not a long shaped one that sits under the ratchet wheel.  Here are a few phtoos. Thats all i need to be able to finish this one, once I figure it out I will re clean and re oil it since its been there for a month with me trying to finalize it here and there .

 

Thank you for your help.

 

 

I have tried one that is bent on one side /lateral and other side is either up or down but however I put it , it doesnt spring the click back

IMG_25BB7B80-C4C6-4C93-AC51-9D80AE31F98E 2.JPEG

IMG_0603 2.JPG

IMG_0605 2.JPG

This click should have a little pin underneath it that catches the spring.

Posted
2 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Posting a photo of the keyless works may at least give some guide to the manufacturer.

Hello AndiGSI. Here it is

IMG_9436.JPG

5 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

This click should have a little pin underneath it that catches the spring.

The click is flat on both sides. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The click needs something for the spring to act against,  a pin or a hole

I totally agree. That's why i am confused and did some research online but havent found anything. I don't have the experience of someone who has seen hundreds or more configurations/springs/click So I thought mybe I am not seeing something or missing something. Here is the upside of the click, its a little scratch and not a hole and a close up of the bridge so unless i am blind with my 10x loupe there is no holes , I wish that would be the case that I am just not seeing it haha. 

IMG_0644.JPG

IMG_0645.JPG

3 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

o if there's no pip on the click or hole in the plate then the spring must have the end up to act against the click.

I have tried that, now there is def a chace that I did it wrong, but it seemed that when I put the click spring then the click on top and add the screw, when I wind the crown and the ratchet wheel turns, the click doesnt come back as the click spring moves as well and just rotates but doesnt have anything to spring back. Again I am aware that I might just be missing something due to being a beginner , I practiced on on the same movements for a while and now I have a lot of vintage wtches some non working that I am trying to learn from , like this one.   I appreciate your input Andi! 

Posted

So it's possible that the pip was on the click at the 10 O'Clock position but it's difficult to see from the photos.

You need to see which way the wheel turns and how the click moves out of the way.

Then look how the spring needs to be fitted to act against this movement.

Posted
2 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

a photo of the keyless works may at least give some guide to the manufacturer.

the photograph the keyless is fine but it would be helpful to have a measurement of the diameter of the main plate or basically on the dial side. Because otherwise we will have to go through quite a few images of the key list try to find this as we don't know the actual size of the watch

Posted

HAHA omg i think i figured something out, so the left side of the click has to be straight down into the ratchet wheel and other side up. I never thought of letting the left side of the spring once it goes around the click to come straight down to the ratchet teeth... i mean for now its working, the click is not super well bent but will try another one 

 

Just now, JohnR725 said:

the photograph the keyless is fine but it would be helpful to have a measurement of the diameter of the main plate or basically on the dial side. Because otherwise we will have to go through quite a few images of the key list try to find this as we don't know the actual size of the watch

Thank you for your input. 36mm mainplate and dial 35.80 so probabaly 36mm if im not 100 % straight . 

Posted
10 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

So it's possible that the pip was on the click at the 10 O'Clock position but it's difficult to see from the photos.

You need to see which way the wheel turns and how the click moves out of the way.

Then look how the spring needs to be fitted to act against this movement.

 

20250417_125627.jpg

Just now, Neverenoughwatches said:

 

20250417_125627.jpg

This is how it should be

1 minute ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

 

20250417_125627.jpg

This is how it should be

You can always see the direction that the click pulls to by the space provided for it to enter when winding.

The spring probably hooks over the rhs of the click.

It should have only one turn up for the click the other end will configure inside the milling under the ratchet wheel. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

You can always see the direction that the click pulls to by the space provided for it to enter when winding.

Wow , thank you so much for your time ! very kind of you. Here is whaty I end up doing and it seems to work , it needed something to hold on to spring back.  out of 10 turns msybe once i have to go back like if i am unwinding 1-2mm but i will make a better one. 

 

So now if the hands are works which they should, disassemble and full clean and oiling 🙂 

IMG_BF02C3741C79-1.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

This is a little clearer with the directions added.

20250417_130759.jpg

6 minutes ago, Arigato said:

Wow , thank you so much for your time ! very kind of you. Here is whaty I end up doing and it seems to work , it needed something to hold on to spring back.  out of 10 turns msybe once i have to go back like if i am unwinding 1-2mm but i will make a better one. 

 

So now if the hands are works which they should, disassemble and full clean and oiling 🙂 

IMG_BF02C3741C79-1.jpeg

The spring must pull the click back not push. So the opposite way to which the click is being pulled into the teeth.

As though its being opened out.

Haha you've got it ! I didnt see the picture .

12 minutes ago, Arigato said:

Wow , thank you so much for your time ! very kind of you. Here is whaty I end up doing and it seems to work , it needed something to hold on to spring back.  out of 10 turns msybe once i have to go back like if i am unwinding 1-2mm but i will make a better one. 

 

So now if the hands are works which they should, disassemble and full clean and oiling 🙂 

IMG_BF02C3741C79-1.jpeg

Needs to come further around cw. Closer to the long leg.

Posted
8 hours ago, Arigato said:

36mm mainplate

for future reference I'm attaching a PDF. in the PDF various measurements are converted to Ligne size which is a standard measurement for watches the problem with a watch photograph is we can't tell how big it is and when you're looking up what's called the fingerprint system the listing is by size. so this presents a challenge if you're looking because it means you have to look at a heck of a lot of watches if you don't actually know the size and you can't tell by the picture so it looks like it's about a 16 L size.

now for the identification we run into several problems. First the watch has to been manufactured in sufficient quantities and spare parts had to be available so that the books like in this particular case I'm looking at the bestfit book it would have to actually list this watch which it does not appear to have listed at all. But your watch is also older than the current book I'm looking at so it might be in a prior edition or other reference books I'm just doing a quick look at this one.

then we do run into the problem of people on the group wanting to look for identified their watch in the hopes a getting parts that probably don't exist anymore at all with literally hundreds of thousands of watches having been made and identifying exact watches can be a challenge or basically impossible

so the fingerprint system existed to identify watches it's basically a thing of the past. So yeah various reference books of various years and they will typically show you with setting parts look like the physical printed books are in the exact size. This way a billable lay the parts right on the book in a PDF you just have to look through the images. What I did I started past 16 has there aren't that many and was heading down to the smaller sizes where there were way more watches here is an image showing what I was looking at and why it's really important to have the size because of yet the start with a much smaller size there be a heck of a lot to look at hoping to find what you're looking for. So basically it says I have to go find an older book and then were going to have to be really lucky.

image.png.1ae26cd30c8b0eaed1c112fab2a6a085.png

watch-ligne-size-chart.pdf

  • Like 1

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