Jump to content

Unitas 6376

tonydagee
 Share

Recommended Posts

tonydagee Watch Enthusiast

tonydagee

Posted
Posted

Hello all.

some help required here from the community please.

I serviced this movement, which was running reasonably well, but the balance spring which was running healthily before I started, after cleaning in hexane for 30 secs, is all bunched up at the stud.

I did store the balalance on a tack thereafter for a day.  

could the spring be strained under gravity? I demagnetised of course, and the balance is squeaky clean.

some help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Tony G

 

 

IMG_4578.jpeg

nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

It's either bent or hung up on something or both. The hexane won't hurt it, and hanging from a balance tack indefinitely won't hurt it.

 

If the spring is glued to the stud there's a chance that the glue was softened and the outer coil stuck to the stud. Haven't seen that happen, but I suppose it could. Don't know if hexane affects the glue used either.

mbwatch Super WRT Addict

mbwatch

Posted
Posted

It would help a lot to see a picture of the balance cock removed and on its back with the balance pivot in its jewel hole.

From this view we can't even rule out the outer hairspring coil being hooked on or under the stud.

  • Like 2
tonydagee Watch Enthusiast

tonydagee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection?

this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly.

i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it.

Any further insights? Thanks!

IMG_4586.jpeg

VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
Posted

I’m having a hard time seeing exactly what’s going on, even when I zoom in as much as possible, but it kind of looks like the hairspring has gotten itself tangled up.

How does the spring look when you place the balance cock on your balance tack? Tangled?

  • Like 4
tonydagee Watch Enthusiast

tonydagee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection?

this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly.

i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it.

Any further insights? Thanks!

  • Confused 1
nevenbekriev Distinguished Member

nevenbekriev

Posted
Posted

The stud screw is shared off, or it is missing. You have to remove (to press out) the stud from the stud carrier. This means to support the end of the stud carrier on the edge of something while holding the cock in a manner that the balance will be free to fall down and to press on the stud with proper tool. But I don't expect the balance to fall, as the spring is possibly wrapped above the cock. So, if this is true, try to gently "unscrew" the spring or in some other kind manner to release it, then show pictures of the damages. If it is still OK, then consider it as a miracle.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • zx6rfool
      Replacing crystal, do I need a bezel tool?

      By zx6rfool · Posted

      This will be my first crystal replacement, I have a press, but looking at the watch I wonder if I might need a bezel tool also. Any and all help appreciated. 
    • JohnR725
      Etachron regulation system

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I'm not entirely sure you fully understand what he's doing in the video. For one thing he's giving examples of things like about 16 minutes he talks about opening up the regulator just a little bit. Opening up the regulator slows the watch down to compensate for that he moves the regulator fast and now it's keeping time again but the regulator pins are too far apart. I have an image down below on top of it shows the effect of regulator pins and amplitude. If the regulator pins are farther apart than the example down below then at a higher amplitude timekeeping will be much worse. Why the regulator pins are supposed to be adjusted as an average rule approximately twice the thickness of the mainspring itself. In other words if you look at the spacing it have one half of the hairspring thickness on either side of the hairspring itself. There is like he talks about the video a little bit of adjustment here and there. So in his example where he opened them up it will really dramatically screw up timekeeping based on amplitude. Then when you get to the 20 some minutes like you say he is adjusting the regulator pins closer together to get a more even timekeeping based on amplitude and amplitude changes are caused by going to various positions. Then and the other example of the image down below regulator pins too far apart and they hairspring is not centered and look what that does the timekeeping. So hairspring is supposed to be centered regulator pins are supposed to properly spaced. Then you get reasonably even timekeeping like it shows in the upper image. It's not like we're regulating out positional errors like poising errors because that's something entirely different.   In the part number above and in the video both of you left off details. I which version of either of your watches I will just make you's timing specifications for your watch down below may specify how you're supposed to do it other words you wind up the watch fully wound up you wait 10 to 60 minutes in the four positions it should be within 60 seconds. Yes it can be closer but you may not actually get zero.     Now let's compare with the 2892 and see where we might have a discrepancy. First off we have a problem of which one is a using did he use the chronometer grade 1 or the top grade or what?  None is basically just much tighter timing tolerances. So when he's using an example watch conceivably might be a chronometer grade watch then things are going to be much more  perfect than what you're going to see.       NH35_TG.pdf ETA 2892-A2 Manufacturing info.pdf
    • nickelsilver
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      Note the 8992 is 850 pounds for a liter. I think this is really for industrial settings like they say, where it would be used as a final bath in a 20,000 buck cleaning machine. I use the 8981.   That is excellent- I don't often get to see a serviced watch 5 years later, but when I do I expect to see pretty much the same oiling on the balance jewels as when it went out. I think at that area, being essentially sealed, it really should remain fairly pristine for likely 10 years. It's why some makers go to the trouble to use cap jewels on the escape wheel as well- not so much for friction reduction, but to keep the oil longer where it really counts.
    • LittleWatchShop
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      I own too many WW lathes, as well as two sherline lathes and a sherline mill with a cnc indexing rotary table. The majority of my experience is using the WW lathes to make staffs, screws, and stems. Recently, I have been experimenting making a pinion on the mill using the indexing table. It works. So, if you want to cut wheels, get the Sherline mill and indexing table...imho
    • mikepilk
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By mikepilk · Posted

      That's strange. I re-serviced a couple of watches after about 4-5 years and there looked to be no loss of oil. These are watches I very rarely wear, and I probably over-oiled a bit back then. 
×
×
  • Create New...