Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hiya,

Has anyone here ever tried gilding with gold leaf as an alternative (cheaper) solution to getting hands replated?

I have an old Record watch and the plating on the hands was in a horrible state. I tried metallic paint but the results were ghastly. I've just ordered some gold leaf and size and was wondering if anyone has any tips?

Thx

S

Posted

My first thought is you might find they mark so easily that you damage the gold leaf when setting the hands back on, but I look forward to maybe being proven wrong?

Posted

I have used gold leaf for gilding hands and even the name of a sea-going boat. But do not use gold size, better to use two-component epoxy varnish and apply the leaf when the varnish layer become tacky. This recipe gives a very hard wearing coat of gold - the boat's name was still shining after 13 years at sea!

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks Colin,

 

That's really helpful - good to know this wasn't a completely mad idea.  From what I read on the internet, the oil based sizes don't produce such a smooth finish, so I ordered some acrylic size.  I will try this first and it should be relatively easy to clean off and go again with epoxy if it doesn't look good.

 

I bought loose leaf gold rather than transfer sheets, so I'm thinking that I will be best off applying the size to the hand and then placing the hand onto the gold rather than the other way around.

 

ro63rto​ - thanks for the suggestion, but the hands are steel, so not sure if this is compatible, and 3 times the cost of what I'm going to try.  Not sure if this piece is a keeper yet!

 

Will let you all know how this goes (when I get the chance).

 

Thx

 

S

Posted

I have replated hands using gold plating pen kit that you can find online, it works well for very small parts like hands (but don't expect to replate cases with these kits) and pretty simple to used. The important point is to have a perfect polish and finish before plating.

Posted

Hi Syfre!

Assuming that the hand has a smooth, polished surface to start with, using the gold leaf method seems like a good way to go as you can burnish the gold leaf to a shine when the varnish has dried.

Posted

I'm just getting familiar (from this topic) with the gold leaf. Never really heard of it. If I were to use this method, what would I need to start from zero? Thanks.

Posted

Hi Bob,

You would need to get some Gold leaf and some size. This has cost me £12 including packaging and delivery.

I think I can improvise everything else, but won't have time to give it a whirl till after Xmas now.

I'll let you all know how it goes but having had a quick peek at the gold leaf I'm wishing I bought the paper backed variety... This stuff makes playing with hairsprings seem positively agricultural!

Wish me luck!

S

Posted

Hi guys,

 

How about a little walkthrough for the uninitiated in this technique? ...mainly me! :) Please?

 

I'd really appreciate it and much more if you can post pictures?!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

I expect you'll have read up on gold leafing technique but if you're manipulating loose leaf use a brush to pick it up and apply it.

 

Good luck!

 

Yes, using a wide, flat brush is the technique of the specialists (e.g. my late father in law). It maybe too late for you, Stuart, but an easier solution is to buy the gold leaf with a tissue paper backing. It is applied by transfer to the tacky size or varnish, and is a very economical solution since only the necessary amount of gold leaf is used each time.

 

Bob, the transfer technique is self explanatory - almost like kid's transfers except that it is transferred from the paper to a tacky varnished surface. Burnished afterwards with an Agate burnisher gives a superb gold coating.

Posted

Thanks Colin, I'm looking into it as we speak and it seems like a good solution for all those old watch hands I wanted to refinish. I guess this will be a new project now! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Good news and bad news... But mostly bad so far.

The best news is that I finally found time to try this out. I've had a couple of goes and both times the initial outcome looked good. Sadly the acrylic size really doesn't stick well to the steel hands I have, and doesn't dry hard enough to burnish the surface at all.

I will be trying Colin's suggestion of 2 part epoxy varnish. I've found something called Diamond Sheen which is used on fishing rods and can be had for about £11, unless anyone has any better suggestions?

Thanks

S

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Been meaning to update on this for a while. For anyone else thinking of trying this, thought you'd like to know that I gave up at the 5th attempt (or so). Acrylic size just didn't stick well enough and epoxy varnish just didn't give enough control to burnish the gold leaf.

Finally bought a pen plating kit with rose gold solution which worked really well. Pleased with result... still some evidence of rust pitting that was too deep to remove, and would have liked to have matched the colour a little better, but don't know enough about the chemistry to do that.

Watch is an interesting design and I've never seen another Record watch similar. Almost like the designer wanted to use every ingredient in the spice rack (like my cooking). Pear shaped hour markers, 2 tone dial, rose gold bezel on a polished and brushed stainless case, luminous dagger hands! All good fun for those days when you want to be firmly planted in the 1950s!

image.jpeg



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Why now Mark ?  And which contact has brought you here ? People have been trying for bloody months to get hold of you for reassurance. Shite way to run a forum tbh. Seven months since you last visited. I think we all need to have a long discussion with you about what happens if anything happens to you. Please look forward to lots of questions.  Thanks for the link John, it will be interesting to find out how much it costs when they email me back.
    • Hi guys. @VWatchie Those images are self hosted (not hosted on this server). Do a look at the page source and you will see this. I’m afraid, I can’t have control or backup images not hosted on this server. ( They seem to be served from here: https://qehvsw.bn.files.1drv.com/) This server is backed up fully every night and the database is backed up and versioned every hour, all stored off site on Amazon S1 platform. It’s hard for us to lose data. Ive got a huge overhead of space on this particular server the site is served from so no worries there 🙂 Sorry all for lack of response so far, I have been extremely busy and am embarrassed to say that priorities had to be set in place for a while.  Be assured that i’ve got constant monitoring and alerts should the site be in an extended problematic state (down etc) and work on these issues if they arise.
    • Web sites are cheap. Message board are easy. Hosting both is less than 100 usd a year and small advertising would cover most of that.  In the discord group we did some 15 min poc and threw up a couple of different message boards on a domain i host.   The real value is the data / information / hive mind While I'm a rank amateur in watch repair the information and assistance on this board is invaluable. The members on here are friendly, entertaining and a wealth of knowledge This is what needs to be preserved  --Jeff
    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
×
×
  • Create New...