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Posted

Got this one arriving today. An Elgin jump hour watch with an Elgin 717 movement. 

I had been itching for a jump hour watch with a nice movement in it.  Most I've seen have a cheap pin pallet movement.  This one is 17 jeweled.  Not currently running and missing the crystal.

Getting the minute wheel off may be interesting.  Looks like there is a special tool to do so.  https://www.crazywatches.pl/elgin-717-golfball-direct-read-jump-hour-1957

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  • Like 4
Posted

Couldn't resist this very inexpensive Lucerne Sport chronograph. It was worth the money just to satisfy my curiosity to what's inside. Seller sez:

Quote

Subdials move as they should, ticks when shaken with good motion for about 5-10 seconds

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  • Like 3
Posted

Looks worth the gamble. Looking forward to seeing what you got.

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Here's my latest gamble. A Lonville pocket watch in a gunmetal case. I too have absolutely no idea what lies inside. 

Possibly a Langendorf. Possibly a 7 jewel cylinder movement. Possibly a small lump of coal inside and a note to Santa Clause.
Time will tell.

 

Lonville watches seem to still be around (or perhaps they have been brought back to life).

 

https://lonville.com/

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

I've seen similar Lonville watches with a Langendorf movement. And in the USA there were brands Lonville and also Stratford which had six jewel Langendorf movements, presumably to lower import costs. The lower balance cap on those is polished steel set in brass instead of a ruby jewel. The plates were very rough, with lots machine swarf and jagged milling, and the plating very thin & corrosion-prone. You may have some fun!

  • Like 2
Posted

It runs.  A grade no. 1425.  Why?  Good question I ask myself.  Mostly a parts movement for a family 1425.  And, perhaps something to practice with.  Sure looks different from a 700X Seiko.  Stupid use of funds at USD40 landed?  

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  • Like 2
Posted
24 minutes ago, durant7 said:

Stupid use of funds at USD40 landed?  

Nope, not a bad price for a 17 jewel Waltham with an apparently intact balance. But the deeper you get, the more money you will lay out for vintage specialty tools and that's where the fun is.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I’ve been doing for others, now I have two coming…

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…always liked these and this one has the combo of patina and value I can go for…

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…and since I have a parcel coming anyways, might as well fill it up. A mystery movement, maybe an eta, but sure is purdy…

On 10/28/2024 at 3:23 PM, AndyHull said:

 

Looks worth the gamble. Looking forward to seeing what you got.

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…your going to need a hand with that one…

Edited by rehajm
  • Haha 1
Posted
4 hours ago, mbwatch said:

Nope, not a bad price for a 17 jewel Waltham with an apparently intact balance. But the deeper you get, the more money you will lay out for vintage specialty tools and that's where the fun is.

Ops.  Do I read that standard screwdriver and novice holding said Horotec tools and Dumont tweezers is best to...put away such a vintage movement.  Or just give spare and my family watch to the local professional?  Keep my watch wrecking to Seiko's and other mass produced Swiss ETAs etc.  Candid input welcome.  Nothing is as easy as an ST36.  

Posted
1 hour ago, durant7 said:

Do I read that standard screwdriver and novice holding said Horotec tools and Dumont tweezers is best to...put away such a vintage movement.

Certainly not. If it's running you will be able to keep it ticking. Problems to watch for are degraded or no shellac on the pallet stones, same with the roller jewel or broken roller jewel. If it already ticks, a clean and reassemble will make it run a little better. But these movements are really capable of running very well even if they had few factory adjustments and you can acquire a lot of interesting tools in pursuit of top performance. If it was your first ever attempt I would say put it aside but you sound like you have enough experience.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/29/2024 at 10:37 PM, rehajm said:

…your going to need a hand with that one…

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This is the  trace from the Lonville. Its not a work of art, but bear in mind I've done nothing to it except wind it.

It does indeed "need a hand" ..or three, and a crystal, and a proper service, but it certainly looks like it wants to live.

Posted

 

9 minutes ago, mbwatch said:

But what's INSIDE it??

I thought you'd never ask.


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It is sporting this rather nifty 5 jewel Swiss lever number.

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I'm guessing its from the early 20th century, which means it is probably more than 100 years old.

  • Like 1
Posted
38 minutes ago, AndyHull said:

It is sporting this rather nifty 5 jewel Swiss lever number.

Five jewels is crazy. Are neither the lower balance hole nor cap jeweled? I assume it's upper balance & cap, pallets, & impulse jewel.

Posted (edited)

I'm saying 5 jewels, because that is the minimum it is likely to be, but it *may* be seven. I haven't explored it any further.
There is a good chance however that the lower balance hole is a bushing, with perhaps a steel cap.
It might, of course be a jewel and cap jewel.

I'll find out when I get a chance to strip and clean it.

What makes me suspect that it is only five jewels is the fact that I have found similar Lonville (Langendorf) seven jewel movement pictures online, but they are stamped 7 Jewel like this example. My suspicion is that if it were 7 jewel, it would say so.

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Lonville was part of the Langendorf Watch Company, a well respected Swiss watch making company.

They traded for exactly 100 years from 1873. They used several brand names including Lanco, Larex and Lancyl.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 2
Posted
33 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

but still don't know what the 'Marlin' refers too?

Can you see a dial code? Catalogs would classify almost every men's water resistant, manual wind model as a Marlin.

Posted
38 minutes ago, mbwatch said:

I don't know where to find a UK 1972 catalog; the dial does not match any of the 1972 Marlins in this US catalog but Timex sprinkled their dial designs over a lot of years https://heritage1854.com/1972-catalog-reference.

Thanks for the lead which has helped me understand Timex details a lot more.

I now realise the first 6 digits are the model and last 4 digits are the movement and year or manufacture.

 

Posted
6 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

I now realise the first 6 digits are the model and last 4 digits are the movement and year or manufacture.

Ah sorry I assumed this was already known. It can be the last 5 too, for the later manual movements 104,105,106 that show up in the later 1970's.

  • Thanks 1

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