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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mbwatch said:

"Double Pleateau" = double roller?

Yes, the roller table in French is the plateau. The roller jewel is ellipse, fork is ancre and pallet jewels are levees. So this has visible pallet jewels, as opposed to the older style that were fit in horizontal slots that completely covered them (they are a nightmare). Those forks also had a boss sticking up to work with the single roller (other watches like the American models used a vertical pin). The double roller is a vastly better design. 

 

The original roller jewels were oval shaped, thus ellipse. High end watches tended to have triangular roller jewels, then the D shape proved the best, and luckily easiest to make.

 

I reckon this didn't go through any chronometer testing, but with the proper "state of the art" escapement, Breguet spring, and that nice whiplash regulator it has all the goods to be a chronometer, thus "Mi-Chronometre" on the dial.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

Yes, the roller table in French is the plateau. The roller jewel is ellipse, fork is ancre and pallet jewels are levees.

Ah cool - of these, levees was the only other unfamiliar term.

Posted
21 minutes ago, tIB said:

Somewhat incredibly after months of looking two turn up on the same day from opposite sides of the planet! 

IMG_20250310_203723.thumb.jpg.af1fd78917a68b801ae43f6066b69197.jpg

Are they both 7625-8233

Posted
8 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Are they both 7625-8233

One is an 8230, the other 8233 - the difference being a change of wording on the dial from sportsmatic/diashock to automatic/waterproof. '66 and '69 I think. 

  • Like 1
Posted

A bit late as I already have these, but anyway:

I got interested in the Seiko Kinetic watches (see the end for the reason), and wanted a smart wearable one, so found this; titanium cased, 5M23 movement and in really nice and fully working condition. It came from Japan & has a Chinese inscription on the back which when translated reveals it was someone's retirement gift after 30 years service!

 

IMG_4758.thumb.jpg.04c8b807e4b9aaa52ecc560507f4a1b6.jpg

Also wanting something to mess with, I found a pair of non-workers from a charity shop on ebay:

IMG_4759.thumb.jpg.f6eb4d1dde9488463b0d1ec410f88ad3.jpg

The one on the left (5M43 movement) has a really bad, worn away case so I'm saving that until needed.

The one on the right (5J22 movement) started up after an hour on a pendulum charger and has run perfectly ever since! It easily lasts a week at a time. It's a "relay" version so the hands stop moving to save the battery/capacitor if not worn for a day or two, then it sets the hands once it's being worn or moved again. It needs a bit of cleaning and polishing, but it's pretty good for one supposedly dead.

 

And this - given to me by an old friend, who I'd happened to show one of the old watches I'd restored.

He is an Apple fan and told me he's never going to wear it again, so he wanted someone interested in watches to have it! It's complete with everything - box, paperwork, case, guarantee and receipt!

It needs a bit of a cosmetic clean but is otherwise near mint, just slight wear on the raised bezel around the small dials. 

It has a 9T82 movement which is apparently "Grand Seiko" grade - and (officially) unserviceable except by Seiko Japan. The capacitor battery is a bit tired and it only lasts about a week rather than a month, but not too bad.

The chronometer is purely mechanical and has a tenth second dial, with the hand rotating once per second; the minutes dial has two hand for hours and minutes.

There a photos of one being fully rebuilt in a thread here; the capacitor change requires dis-assembly of the chronograph!

Servicing this is beyond my present skill level, as a single damaged part means it's wrecked. It will have to go to Seiko once that's unavoidable.

https://forumamontres.forumactif.com/t263764-remplacement-batterie-sur-une-seiko-9t82

ps. The dirt on the back was not obvious in normal room lighting...

IMG_4761.thumb.jpg.264691404d420b9ec1047e97925a405a.jpg

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  • Like 5
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 3/31/2025 at 8:06 PM, AndyGSi said:

Just bought this and wondered has anyone heard of Klabier or would like to take a guess at what Automatic movement it has?

image.thumb.png.750da647a141f1d46cc328a27f4ef87a.png

Arrived this morning with an ETA 2789 movement that has some life but needs to be serviced.

Also has a problem with slipping when trying to set the hands clockwise so another one in the project cupboard.

IMG_20250405_120625.jpg

Edited by AndyGSi
  • Like 3
Posted

Not in the mail, but I happened to be at my local jeweler, who lets me rummage around in his case of estate sale and broken watches. Found a few nice little guys to play with.

First this Waltham. Missing the crystal and looks like it may have a broken balance pivot, but gorgeous otherwise. S/N 19182492 puts it at 1913. The case is marked Dueber, 9096616.

IMG_1225.thumb.jpg.4c6137179c1a708542629d45bd4b761b.jpg

 

Then this lovely little Elgin. S/N 14422258, dating it to 1909! Officially the oldest watch I own. Case is also Dueber, 7614612. The balance seems okay on this one, but it's sluggish. Hopefully just needs a service.

IMG_1224.thumb.jpg.3ca36ab547d77fd7633bfc30a927aecf.jpg

 

I had to throw in this stopwatch and sweet Deco watch fob while I was at it.

IMG_1226.thumb.jpg.770d8996f3ed215c1d5ab1c9668bd13a.jpg

IMG_1230.thumb.jpg.7735a28f41647a91de771015f763e3c1.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
16 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

No, I knew it wasn't a Cartier, Cerlies on the dial. Manual wind, incabloc and 17 jewels and I'll be more than satisfied.

Ha! Okay, I also misread that. I had already go over to search for twenty dollar Cartier tanks on auction...

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

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