Vintage Quartz watches

[buzz12]

I have a variety of older quartz watches that appear to have obsolete movements. Being new to this, can I ask, is it possible to measure a quartz movement and find an alternative? If so, how do I go about matching the original movement?   

[bobm12]

Hi buzz,

Welcome to the forum.

To answer your question, it is possible to find the "next" movement to the obsolete one or in other words the current substitute by the same company. It is a little difficult to figure it out but if you post the movement(s) you are talking about I'm sure there will be someone who knows the alternative.

Sometimes there is no substitute or an equivalent is not from the original company or even the same country. An example, and it is not the same situation, I've seen Miyotas 8200 type movement substituting ETA 2824 type movements...Also some quartz from ETA may be substituted by cheaper Rondas and so forth. The trick is to have the approximate same dimensions and the height to the stem and dial to match the case.

I'm sure some one that has more experience in this than me will soon chip in.

Cheers,

Bob

[rogart63]

Sometimes i has been able to find movements on Ebay. Or just servicing the old movement could make it run again? Some old Citizen movement has newer movements that would interchange with the old ones. So all depends on what movement it is? Ronda does a whole lot of movements that could work for older movements. 

[buzz12]

One is a Geneva quartz, movement is Longain Ltd LG08

and the other is a Vialli PH7799 but the movement only has Miyota

Neither are anything special, but I like them. I'll take a look at the Ronda movements and see what I find.

[bobm12]

The Miyota movement should have a modern version from Miyota/Citizen. They normally do. Maybe if you post a picture we can give you a more accurate answer.

[buzz12]

Cheers Bob. Think I found a Miyota movement if the height is right. What exactly does the height measurement refer to - just the thickness of the movement (without stem?)

Struggling with the round one though, 18.3 dia. Any ideas where I need to be for this one?

[digginstony]

I've converted a few quartz. With the 18.3 You can easily get away with a smaller diameter movement with a suitable dial spacer. Thickness is more an issue so find one to match. If it has date calendar then you will need the same diameter or very close. Head height measure the thickness of movement to the base of the hour wheel. Then thickness of movement to the top of the hour wheel and that will give you the head height. If the dial feet don't fit the new movement, cut them off, smooth with a fine file and fit dial to movement with dial stickers. If the substitute movement has a taller head height to fit the hour hand on, you may still get away with it, using a high dome crystal.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[digginstony]

Possibly I should of been more clear. The height measurements is the base of the hour wheel to the top. My hands are not steady so I tend to leave on movement to take measurement to be more accurate.

Also if the watch has any value an original or updated version of the movement is the only way to go.

Most vintage quartz watches have no value. Personally I love them.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[buzz12]

Gotcha... very helpful. So, if height is the key bit, what's the best way to find a match? By that, I mean do different makers tend do different heights or is it a case of any brand will probably do... take your pick? The watches in question are not of any value... I just like them.  I do have some that might have value, but I'm cutting my teeth on the cheapies, first. Personally, I prefer mechanical, but I wear what I like, and if it's quartz... well who cares... I'm happy with this one,

[bobm12]

Hi buzz,

Yes, the height is mainly the thickness of the movement. Pretend the quartz movement is a waffle and the hour wheel is the little butter some restaurants put on top: The thickness is the waffle without the butter. Some distributors call "total height" and measure from the bottom of the waffle to the top of the butter which is a different measurement. I've found both measurements help since some movements are made with a taller "butter" therefore their thickness is the same but the total height differ among them.

Then, manufacturers make different heights (either one) because of case design. Some cases offer less space for the movement than others...just a matter of design and manufacturing...and even marketing I suppose.

In the Miyota case, I would check also the diameter of the movement just in case there is still something similar. Check for a familiar resemblance on your supplier's database (they post pictures) but the most important is the height. As digginstony said, the height is the important one, the shape can always be "filled up" to meet your requirements with an adapter or something. Also, by getting the same manufacturer's movement (from the old one) you are playing safe (although not always) to ensure the dial will fit the replacement (newer) movement. One word of caution: check the hands hole size. Those should match the specs of the new movement (one more reason to look the newer stuff from the SAME manufacturer as the old one) otherwise you will have to get newer hands and some Miyotas are difficult to get.

Bottom line, the more similarities of the new movement with the old, the less you will have to "improvise".

I hope it helps,

Cheers,

Bob