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Project update- now completed. I saw another weems where the locking crown was threaded and matched the thick diameter of the threaded case, the end inside was mushroomed so it would lock out before becoming detached. The crown I have had only the internal threads so I hunted for a replacement screw that would fit like the 'original'. A setting lever screw from a scrap movement had a .8 pitch and a head wide enough to wedge into the case and allow for unscrewing of the crown. I wish the screw was longer but it will allow the bezel to be unlocked and turned. The watch is a gift for a young pilot so I'll warn not to unscrew the crown too much. I found a donor movement with the extra long version of the seconds pinion spring so movement is working brilliant... I made the little wedge part from a tiny piece of .015 annealed 1075 steel shim. My work is quick and dirty and wouldn't fly on a nicely finished case but my rough finish doesn't really show under the locking bezel and matches the damage on the bezel quite nicely thank you 😁... I have a bigger version weems on the bench at the moment. There are so many variants of case and movement they feel more like the days of hand made. I'll post the other soon....
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What about spong, that is soft and harmless unless you decide to eat it. You could use Rishe Suniaks head because that is empty. 🤣
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Although, most service manuals from 25 years or more back will say use 9010. Old service manuals for Felsa 690 use 9010 in the auto works and as @JohnR725has said the progression from 9010 to 9020 and then HP 1300 showed some bad lubrication decisions in the early days. The Rolex service manual pic was from an up to date service manual, so what you see is epilamed. Personally, I dip the pallet jewels in so the pivots don't get any epilame, but I don't worry about the escape wheel pivots. I know it's fine, by opening up automatic watches I serviced five years ago and not seeing any brown dust around the escape wheel pivots or any problems in their timing, amplitude or general running.
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Yes the endless amusement over lubrication choices. Having more Omega documents and in the late 50s for the keyless Omega recommended 9010. Later they moved to 9020 and now like Swatch group its HP 1300. I would like to think once they started servicing their own watches they may have discovered how stupid they were with early lubrication choices. Although personally I still don't like HP oil for a lot of things where I think grease would be more suitable. Think about 9010 I went back the Rolex service mail and at least my manual doesn't actually say that the says things like this That does not look like the definition of 9010 so it's definitely something heavier. Thinking about heavier lubrication I'm attaching a PDF they are recommending HP 1000's but there isn't really a lot a different Between 1000 And 1300 so I'd use whatever you have and definitely use epilam to keep it from spreading all over the place. Yes another endless debate subject. Plus occasionally it depends upon a specific watch where whatever method you normally do may not actually work in that particular case. Or my favorite some American pocket watches stuff on both sides of the main plate react with each other so the order assembly is critical usually figuring out after you've partially assembled the watch that you not doing it in the correct order. Rolex oil chart 3135.pdf
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