Jump to content

Lathe faceplate


szbalogh

Recommended Posts

I will need a faceplate to make modifications to a specific watch case to fit the movement or just to broaden my capabilities. It must be DIY of course :) Looking for simple designs like these:

3548559_orig.jpg6239864_orig.jpg

But it is not clear what the cranks at the outboard of the clamps are used for. Are they necessary?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"But it is not clear what the cranks at the outboard of the clamps are used for. Are they necessary?"

They are like small toolmakers clamps and are used for clamping thin plates.  The slots in the faceplate allow easy positioning of the clamps/job to be turned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Geo said:

If you know how a toolmakers clamp works it should be self explanatory.

Hehe, i only know that it is used to turn plates and such. Never used one before.

I just think that the screws at the back are to tighten the workpiece. But those other screw??? What they do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's one off my Boley lathe.  

You adjust the clamps until they gently grip the part that you wish to machine.  Once you have positioned the part correctly, you tighten the knurled nuts at the back of the plate to grip the part really tightly.

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Geo said:

Here's one off my Boley lathe.  

You adjust the clamps until they gently grip the part that you wish to machine.  Once you have positioned the part correctly, you tighten the knurled nuts at the back of the plate to grip the part really tightly.

AAhhhhhh!  Now i got it :) That nut at the front is to adjust the clamp to the workpiece thickness, that the clamp will stay parallel to the faceplate! Thank You for the excellent pictures. Now i can see that spring as well. :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That was the intial reason I used mine the one time, timegrapher wouldn't pick up a signal, but it turned out to be something else. For fairly rare events like this, you're probably better off using Nicklesilver's method, or use an accurate pocket watch to match the oscillations up to. I think the tool is best suited to folk that time balances regularly, as would have been the case years ago. Maybe for small companies that let out their hairspring timing services, that didn't have the movement to work with. At the end of the day you already have the perfect timing device....the actual movement. The tool's convenience merely saves you the time and effort of unpinning and repinning the hairspring to the stud a few times to get it right.  Providing a " Prior Idiot " hasn't fitted incorrect train wheels 😄
    • If you restaff the balance correctly, there should be no need to repoise the wheel, unless it was messed with by a previous watchmaker. Here is an experiment to try that will explain my findings. Remove the balance from a correctly running watch that is marked "adjusted to 5 or 6 positions" or however many they claim. Place it on your poising tool, and you will find that it is out of poise. But, being out of poise, it has been adjusted for positional adjustments, to average the 5 or 10 seconds a day. It seems like you would want the wheel to be perfectly weighted all around, but it might run better a little heavier CU at the 4:30 position on the wheel. HERE is a good article that can explain it better than me. I also see a large amount of bad repairs, back when it was a cutthroat occupation. So if someone did re-poise a balance before you, you might have to do it again to correct it for positional accuracy. But at that point, its a sunken cost fallacy, as it will take a long time to make adjustments to 6 positional accuracy, so you might be better off finding an unmolested replacement.
    • This is a little clearer with the directions added. The spring must pull the click back not push. So the opposite way to which the click is being pulled into the teeth. As though its being opened out. Haha you've got it ! I didnt see the picture . Needs to come further around cw. Closer to the long leg.
×
×
  • Create New...