Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have owned mechanical watches all my life, from a Smiths - a 13th birthday present, thro several 'no-name' Swiss pieces in the pre-quartz days; several Seiko & Citizen daily beaters to a collection now of some 20+!

A recent acquistion was a $40 Seamaster, that had seen better days - but worth the punt. I had expected to get someone like WatchGuy to work on it - but I kept missing the cut. Then I stumbled on you guys, wandered around and thought I'd give it a go myself - what could possibly go wrong?

So, I'm in the process of 'tooling up'and decided that my guinea-pig would be an old Seiko 7S26A that had given up on me. I thought the rotor had broken but I got the back off with the 'duct tape ball' and screwed the rotor back on - what I hadn't realised was that this movement has no manual wind - so of course it wouldn't go!

Anyway, with Mark's videos & Hacko's guides, I'm going to crack on with the teardown/clean/oil/rebuild so wish me luck.

IF all goes well, there's a Hamilton that's losing time and then the Seamaster!!  So,to paraphase Capt. Oates - "I may be some time".

Posted

Welcome Turk! Yes, it is a good idea to dissect the Seiko first rather than the Omega or the Hamilton for that matter! :)

By the way, your 7S26A (also version B  ) requires a "Philips" type screwdriver for one of the screws dial side. It is a tiny screw on the "Date Dial Guard". Other than that small difference it is the same as version C we have in the walkthrough section: an excellent one done by Lawson. Version C uses 4 screws of the same type on the guard. Also, the 7S36 is identical version to version but adds one more bridge and one more screw...but that is not your case. I'm including all these particular to broaden your search resources in case you are going deeper into those vintage Seiko movements...since you are working on one. Finally, CousinsUK sells the 7S36 which in a pinch can be swapped for the original 7S26 that way, if you mess anything up, you won't miss your original Seiko.

Cheers,

Bob

PS. Hacko says to build your own special screwdriver for that tiny screw...I went ahead and bought the Seiko screwdriver for that one...it is inexpensive...I figure, part of tooling up.

 

Posted

Thanks both - in the case of the 'rogue' philips-head screw, I was intending to 'engineer' a cheapo blade! I can't, for the life of me, think why seiko have such an oddball amongst regular screws. It seems to go against the very nature of japanese mfg. philosophy, ie standardise.

Posted (edited)

Greetings and Salutations!

I went ahead and popped for the darn screwdriver too. The only reason I can think of for that screw is that it is there to support some automation procedure during assembly. 

Edited by dadistic
Posted

...maybe it was an afterthought (think recall?) to smooth out the reliability of the mechanism...there is a wheel that actions the date and the day, attached to the plate, next to the screw. I've seen those working without the screw but by having it (regardless of version) it keeps the teeth of the wheels aligned properly... the plate is not rigid enough and with use it might bend a little without the screw. As a result, teeth won't align well with possible damage or unreliable action.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you @Mark. I only became a Patreon subscriber 5 or 6 months ago, but I draw so much value here. If you come up with future contribution or support opportunities, I will be on board.
    • Hi Mike I did a ships clock a long while ago, not a Hermle though and without getting the beast in my hands to refresh my memory I can’t recall the timing.  This doesn’t help I know but will start the grey matter turning.
    • Of course it will continue Richard.
    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
×
×
  • Create New...