Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A friend of mine asked if i want to make a stem for him. I have improved my hardware and wanted to try so happily accepted :)

Not in the Dremel now. Here the pulley wheel is serving as a dividing plate with 4 holes making sure that the rectangle cross-section will be perfect. Turning with help of a microscope, no loupe at all. 

2016-10-07_15_18_06.jpeg

2016-10-07_17_49_00.jpeg

A thin glass strip is hot glued on the "T-rest" which has two purpose. The file is sliding on it easily and it is making sure that the sides will be parallel.

2016-10-07_17_49_08.jpeg

2016-10-08_14_59_38.jpeg

Still a lot to file down.

The workpiece is a spoke of a Chehoslovak Favorit road racer. Even tungsten carbide is softer if hardened.

  • Like 5
Posted
2 hours ago, nsg1tausend01 said:

Wow , very nice.
Congrats on your skills and know how.
Regards
Robt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Skill and know how? :(    :) 

Snapshot_20161010.PNG

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Finaly i got something similar to a winding stem.... for the 6th try.... 

20161016_142231.jpeg

M1.2 thread done. The stem here was turned down to 1.15mm to make sure it wont break while tapping. 

20161017_181000.jpeg

After heated to red and dropped in brine. It is so hard and brittle, i can hear it whizzling near my ear :)

20161017_191123.jpeg

Using my special top quality heating pan

20161017_192510.jpeg

Annealed. Not as shiny like on pictures one can find on pro-watchmaker school sites, but the color tells me the temperature and that is important.

20161017_192910.jpeg

 And the best thing is, i dont had the movement. So there might be a big surprise for the guy i made it if it wont work :)

Edited by szbalogh
Posted (edited)
On 2016. 10. 18. at 0:00 AM, MilTimeCan said:

I am in awe.

Wow, I worked on a lot of plastic model aircraft parts in my younger days, but I have never seen anything like this. 

Sir, you are a pro !

Not a pro for sure :) Just so excited while discovering this new watchmaking world. For an experienced watchmaker this is an every day job :) And i am sure i could make it better. For example if i had a glass fiber scratch brush, then the bluing would be better. Also i am not satisfied with the setting lever slot.The rectangular edges here are not perfect. I will have to grind a better graver to cut this type of slots.

Made a video of this project, threading included.

 

Edited by szbalogh
  • Like 5
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I put the original broken glass (whats left of it) behind the acrylic. This is how it originally looked like. A cheap clock but I like it. Very noisy when the alarm comes wake up guaranteed! 🙂
    • If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
×
×
  • Create New...