Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone. My name is Tony and I'm from Cumbria. I have been keen on Horology for about 30 years and have resurrected dozens of clocks from the graveyard. However I've always been reluctant/scared to delve into wristwatches. Recently I was bequeathed a 1969 Omega Seamaster "Flat Jedi" Chronograph, the case is in a bit of a state (missing chrono pushbuttons,snapped stem,missing crown) etc. The dial and movement (cal 861) look immaculate although it is a non runner. Does anyone think this is a step too far for me ie should I learn to walk before I can run. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

Welcome!

Chronographs are not the best way to start IMO... Get a really cheap pocket watch from the internet, practice on that first (it's bigger and a great way to learn). Then get a cheap wristwatch and work on that for a while. It's both to get comfortable with the layout but also with the tools, materials and the size.

Chronographs are a whole other breed IMO. They require experience and knowledge of the movement so that you can disassemble and assemble them the correct way. I'm not familiar with this particular movement (looks gorgeous by the way) so I'll let other comment on the degree of difficulty.

There are clock people around, they'll be able to explain what to expect coming from the clock world :)

Posted

Hell Tony, I started out on clocks from the very simple to high end stuff, then I went on watches at this time I was an apprentice, it was the simple easy watch movements it was only when I mastered them I moved on to the more complicated movements, Chronographs come under complicated movements, Only you can decide but if you do take it on if you can take notes and photos and read up on what you have, I presume you have a watch cleaning machine and try and find if the parts you need are still available. You can always post on here for any help you might need. Myself I'm more of a clock person so I'd love to read about your ventures with clocks, might we have a few photos of you work.

Posted

Welcome Tony, I started with clocks & moved onto watches. I am self taught & therefore made a lot of mistakes but improved over the years to a point of vary rarely getting into trouble with them !!! However  I would first start with a very basic watch just so you get used to handling the smaller parts etc. 

This is a friendly forum with lots of knowledge & help, enjoy.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Mike I did a ships clock a long while ago, not a Hermle though and without getting the beast in my hands to refresh my memory I can’t recall the timing.  This doesn’t help I know but will start the grey matter turning.
    • Of course it will continue Richard.
    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
×
×
  • Create New...