Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

My BTM lathe is a war issue version and the motor that is currently driving the lathe is about the same vintage as the lathe, and worst of all is huge and ways over 10kg.

I've just sold my BSA WM20 motorcycle so have some funds to put into new tools and would like to replace the motor for my lathe.

I was thinking about buying a Sherline lathe motor and adapting that, but I'm open to other suggestions. I know I could buy an old sewing machine and use the motor from it, but then I'm back to having a motor that is probably atleast 40 years old. I do want one that has variable speed, the foot pedal would be a nice to have, but not a problem if it doesn't have one.

Anyone have a better suggestion than a Sherline lathe motor, and no I dont want to spend £1500 for the Bergeon lathe motor?

Once I've got a new motor I will make a new base for the lathe and refurbish the lathe too.

Thanks Tony

Edited by Tmuir
correct spelling mistakes
Posted

Find a discarded treadmill and use the motor & controller from that.  Usually zero cost for the treadmill.  You would only have to adapt a pulley to the motor's axle.

  • Like 1
Posted

I would try with a sewing machine motor,it can be adjusted right out of the box and is easy to mount on a plate or worktable. .... and soit  is cheap, even from new! You might have to change the pulley!

An alternative is to find a small standard 230V motor and mount it on a plate. It is also possible to use a small 3phase motor and then add a capacitor. The method also makes it easy to reverse with a toggle switch. If you choose the method so I will elaborate and throw a wiring diagram up!

3faset_som_1faset.png

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
    • This is indeed a unique site and members including myself genuinely care about it.  All we want is the site to continue. 
    • Hello Mark,  thank you for the ad removal , like JohnR725 , I appreciate any revenue from such would be helpful.  This is the one forum which encourages conversation and social interaction and in that sense it is unique  All the others I frequent can be a little intimidating and answers some what terse some quite rude. I think on here we try to do justice to your site in keeping with your principals. In my opinion it is like no other. The contributors  behave and act like gentlemen and ladies. And long may it continue to be so.
×
×
  • Create New...