Best Watch For Newbie To Start With

[anilv]

Just thought I'd share my view on the best watch for a newbie watch enthusiasts to start working on.

 

 

Instead of going for cheapo pin-lever movements, my recommendation would be to start on a hand-wind Vostok or Raketa for the following reasons.

 

1. Designed and constructed using traditional watchmaking concepts. Not much different between the Russian movements and Swiss mechanisms from the 50s-60s.

 

2. While the appearance may be a bit rough compared to swiss machines, they are functionally correct and capable of keeping good time.

 

3. They are cheap and plentiful on the internet in running condition. It is important for a beginner to start with a running watch as if the result of your efforts result in a non-runner you know that you have missed something. If you start start with a non-running watch you may not be able to find anything wrong but the watch may still not run.. leaving you in limbo.

 

4. A lot of them have a hairspring with a Brequet overcoil. Not essential but nice and something you have to pay big bucks for in a Swiss movement.

 

5. A lot of interesting stuff can be had at a low price.

The Vostok 2809 is a nicely finished movement and said to be able to keep Chronometer grade timing. It is also said to be based on a Zenith chronometer but I think this is probably wishful thinking..! It has a fine regulator to boot! If you can find one with Boctok and long word in Russian this is the best one as I understand they have a better balance/hairspring.. the long word is precision in Russian.

The Poljot 3133 is an affordable mech chronograph (based on the Valjoux 7733 but parts not freely interchangeable).

The Poljot 2209 is an interesting hand wind where the wheels have been re-arranged to allow for a thinner movement.

The Poljot 2200 is a super thin movement but rare. I have only seen this on the net.

 

6. No fake stuff.

 

Bad points..

 

a. Cases are usually base metal.. this aesthetically this fails to please me and what is worse they cannot seal well and allow in water and dust.. these factors make these watches an occasional watch rather than a daily beater. The Vostok Amphibias have poor water sealing too. There are a lot of snap-backs too, once the base metal case gets worn the caseback will not 'snap' into place.

 

b. Poor availability of parts.. for wheels and gears you can resort to an 'organ donor' off the bay but for stuff like mainsprings, balance staffs etc you have to look for the handful of guys on the net who sell them. A bit of effort required and usually the watch will not be worth it.

 

c.Shock-protection, where fitted, is not of good quality.. There is one specie of shock protection which looks like an Inca spring but once you release the 'legs' the whole spring just slides out of its slot. If you try to pry it up like you would an Inca it will just fly off...

 

d.Styling is quirky...the simple dress watches are the best. a lot of weird combinations of colours and case style. Fine if you want something to remind you of Soviet memorabilia.

 

e. There seems be variations in the specifications of items like balance staffs. I have seen watches where there is a foil spacer under the balance cock and others without. I don't know if this was to account for production variances or general practise when that particular watch was put together but its something to be aware of when swapping components around.

 

 

 

 

All in all I have found Russian to be good value for money (best bang for the buck so to speak!) and very user friendly. While Seikos and its ilk are not that difficult to start with, the day/date complication and non-hand-winding (Seikos) do not really give you the insight to watchmaking at its most basic level. I appreciate and admire Seikos for their design and efficiency but their movements do not inspire me.

 

Hope this helps some aspiring watchmaker...!

 

Anil

 

 

 

 

 

[WillFly]

Great advice there, Anil. I think Russian watches are quite interesting, and I've owned two Molnija pocket watches in the past. I only own one wrist watch - a Zim - which is cheap and cheerful. The construction is rugged and straightforward. I bought it on a whim and, like many of these things, have got quite attached to it! It has no sophistication whatsoever and will probably be running in 1,000 years's time! I had a Poljot "Shturmanskie" (Aviator) chronograph, the movement of which a - Poljot 3133 - was based on the Valjoux 7733, and I noticed that the various train wheels were of different colours. Your comment on poor availability of parts is spot on. Here's my Zim movement - just for fun:

 

[anilv]

..with a Breguet overcoil...! try finding that on an ETA , AS, FHF etc etc.

 

Also note the winding wheel is held by two screws instead of a single left-hand threaded screw...! good quality stuff..

 

Anil

[bobm12]

Nice advice and nice watch. I believe that there is a lot about Russian technology we are unaware of. Strong, no frills stuff that do the job...maybe a bit on the rough side but quite durable and adequate for its job. Beautiful after a fashion.

[DJW]

Good advice! I would also recommend starting out on any watch with an SeaGull ST36 movement (Chinese ETA 6497/98). These are large caliber movements, easier for the beginner to handle. Also, the movements themselves can be had brand new for roughly $40US- A complete watch made from new parts for $65-$75. Also, Parts are readily available. Better yet, buy a second movement just incase!

[bobm12]

I agree, that was my first movement, only it was the Unitas 6498 (older, before absorbed by ETA)!