Jump to content

Old style rubbed in jewels

TimFitz

By TimFitz
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

TimFitz WRT Addict

TimFitz

Posted
Posted

I am ready to tackle replacing a rubbed in jewel on a Hamilton  18s #934 pocket watch movement. I have done the other kinds, but have been waiting until I have been working on watches for a few years before I try this. Many people say don't buy those old watches with rubbed in jewels, why work that hard, buy more modern ones with the screws holding them In.

Well I like a challenge,  so I have an old school set of tools to do the job. (photo attached )

Does anyone have advice on the pitfalls or tricks I need to know? Maybe a link to a video?

I would be much obliged

tool.JPG

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Tim, theres a thread on this forum about rubbed in jewels. If you use the search you should find it. Good for you in having a go at something different.

TimFitz WRT Addict

TimFitz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Tim, theres a thread on this forum about rubbed in jewels. If you use the search you should find it. Good for you in having a go at something different.

Thanks much appreciated

BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
On 01/11/2017 at 8:13 AM, oldhippy said:

Tim, theres a thread on this forum about rubbed in jewels. If you use the search you should find it. Good for you in having a go at something different.

Mark has done a video on rubbed in jewels

  • Like 1
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted

Mark made the video for me:) i was in rubbed in jewel knowledge hunting for a few months. Now i have done a few successfully, thanks to Mark’s help and video


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • 3 years later...
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

The thing with rubbed in jewels is everything is wonky. The original jewels had a specific form usually quite domed with a distinct bevel on the underside. If you have a stock of antique jewels you might find one that fits your pivot _and_ fits the plate/bridge diameter. Provided you have that, often the material of the bridge/plate has become quite fragile, from time as well as being work hardened from the original burnishing. So sometimes the material that you want to reburnish crumbles apart.

 

If you don't have antique jewels, friction jewels lack the pronounced bevel that takes the burnished over material. They can be modified but it's a process with diamond paste and lathes and grinding gear. Sometimes though you get lucky and a Seitz jewel will seat and hold. You also have no adjustment for height, where the jewel seats is it.

 

On many antique pieces I will bore out the whole jewel area, including the dome often cut into the plate/bridge outside the jewel. Then make a bushing that fits well and will take a friction jewel. The bushing gets its concave dome, finished properly,  jewel gets fitted, all pressed in and you have at least a few hundredths of adjustment as well and if you use german silver on a grey bridge it's invisible (for gold plated best to plate the bushing). If it's not a Breguet or other historical piece this is often the best possible repair. For a Breguet you make the jewel, period. No boring out of that stuff.

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • watchweasol
      Smiths rim wind and set

      By watchweasol · Posted

      Hi. It’s either riveting or welding . I have seen some small home made welding tools on UTube at times may be I should have a go at building one, they are small spot welding machines. Suitable for the likes of these type jobs.
    • RichardHarris123
      Introduction

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • transporter
      Smiths rim wind and set

      By transporter · Posted

      Hi watchweasol, yes that is a way of doing it I suppose, I have a pair of mainspring hole making pliers on their way off eBay, the ones with the different shaped punches. I may be able to use them to make a hook.
    • pablocchristo
      Introduction

      By pablocchristo · Posted

      Hello everyone, Glad to be here. 
    • ColdWind
      EMG Crown DL63

      By ColdWind · Posted

      This is a modern watch, the crown is definitely made from solid 316l steel. You must have heated the crown to some 200C caused the surface colour to change to light yellow. It's similiar to steel tempering. Yes it is the chromium oxide that forms during the heating that gives rise to the colours you see as you know stainless steel contains chromium. The fact the crown is SS lead me to a question, you've never heard of the alum method? Because alum would work perfectly in this case, instead of drilling, which, there is always a risk of damaging the crown, I would just let the crown chilling in some warm alum solution for 1-2 days and the job is done.   Sure can but the thing is the crown is not just mirror finishing, the lock symbol is polish while its background is some sand-blasted finishing so it would be hard to replicate that. You can buff it all shiny but losing the sand-blasted finishing means it won't look exactly like before.   Gasket is always tricky to me. I would try to use some gasket that look closest to the broken one in term of thickness and diameter, and check if the replacement gasket fit with some friction to the case tube. Lastly you can still use alum at this point.
×
×
  • Create New...