Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

have just got one of these waterproof russian watches, it has a bezel on it a anchor on the dial.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement  screw down Crown, as the one that is on the watch the spring has gone on it, and it just flops around when its unscrewed. 

The picture isn't the exact watch, but it's near enough. 

Thanks

$_35.jpeg

Posted

I think you need to check it is actually broken first. Vostok Amfibia use a rather clever clutch so the crown is only engaged with the movement when changing the time. They are meant to wobble around like they are broken.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 3
Posted

Check if it's actually broken first.  If it is you could find a new one on Ebay. There are sellers that sell new crowns . Be careful when changing the crown and stem as the keyless works is easy to mess up. Press down and pull out. 

  • Like 1
Posted

+1 @rogart63 and @Sopgeo.

This is a design characteristic of the Amphibia and also the most common query / concern of newbie Amphibia owners.

Just google Vostok Amphibia wobbly crown and you will find many examples as below;

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f10/question-about-boctok-amphibia-crown-wobble-462400.html

Somewhere on the net there is a really interesting article about the development and evolution of the Amphibia design which explains a lot of its idiosycracies, if I can find it again I will post a link.

These are actually great watches and represent truly excellent value for money.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes it's a nice watch, most of the ones I've seen on ebay the plating doesn't survive well.

Anyway I dicided ide see if I could fix it,  so I pulled out the stem, found a spring that fitted inside the pendant tube and just lot enough to reach the crown and bobs your uncle, no more wobbly crown .

Posted

I have just got one of these waterproof russian watches, it has a bezel on it a anchor on the dial.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement  screw down Crown, as the one that is on the watch the spring has gone on it, and it just flops around when its unscrewed. 

The picture isn't the exact watch, but it's near enough. 

Thanks

5a113087dd2a7__35.jpeg.a167a27923f1a5f33f11f529531502c2.jpeg
Have you tried CousinsUK?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  • 7 months later...
Posted
On ‎2017‎-‎11‎-‎19 at 2:00 PM, Marc said:

This is worth a read if you want a better understanding of Amphibias;

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f54/vostok-amphibia-analysis-design-methodology-491757.html

1

Later, someone used this write-up as a script to record a video, and this video sparked my passion for Russian watches. The design, at the time, was truly something new and special, and it still holds water (pun intended)!

 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Mike I did a ships clock a long while ago, not a Hermle though and without getting the beast in my hands to refresh my memory I can’t recall the timing.  This doesn’t help I know but will start the grey matter turning.
    • Of course it will continue Richard.
    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
×
×
  • Create New...