My First Strip Down - Helvetia

[PhilB]

Thanks guys, I have almost no idea what most of the parts do.

What should I do before re-assembly?

I have it in mind just to put it back together.

Maybe I should buy some oil or give it a clean and new main spring.

The movement was working before dismantling but stopping intermittently.

Would it be frowned upon if I just attempted to rebuild it without any servicing on my first attempt?

[Geo]

Given that you are just starting out in this horological hobby and probably don't have specialised cleaning equipment, thoroughly wash the parts in lighter fuel before re-assembly and lubrication. You will have to purchase watch oil, oilers and grease to progress with your task. Make a point of watching Mark's videos where he describes in detail how to lubricate a watch. Oil the pinions and jewels only, nit the gears, and remember too little oil will cause less problems than too much.

I forgot to say that given the inter taint problem that you had, you will probably nor require a new spring.

Edited September 2, 2014 by Geo

[bobm12]

I believe that for starters it would be OK to use toothpicks (pegwood is customary but maybe this time we can look the other way :)  ) and carefully peg every jewel before cleaning. Inspect them and determine if they are not cracked or chipped. Maybe after cleaning and lubing the problem goes away...or it may need a part replacement?

[PhilB]

I've removed the barrel bridge to show the mainspring barrel and what I think is called the great wheel(?)

 

 

Finally I turn the movement back over and remove the winding mechanism and it's finished.

 

 

I'm going to leave the main barrel closed this time, give the watch a clean and start rebuilding but I'll need some supplies first.

 

I'll use a toothpick as suggested and source some basic watch oil. I have some lighter fluid but really need to study what I can and can't put in it to clean.

 

Am I correct in thinking I shouldn't put pieces with jewels in the ligher fluid because of the glue or have I got two pieced of info mixed up?

[frenchie]

Lighter fluid is fine (I use it to clean all the parts). Alcohol is what can melt the shellac that holds some the jewels in place (on the balance wheel and the pallet fork especially I believe).

[PhilB]

I have a good look at the bare parts and noticed this hook. There are two of these on each side of the movement. 

 

During the dismantling I never touched them, what are they for?

 

Also there is a stamp H873 - I expect this is the movement no.?

 

[Geo]

They hold the dial in place, you should have pushed them outwards to release the dial. Before fitting the dial hinge them outwards, position the dial, then press them back in to grip the pins.

[bobm12]

Now I can see the new pictures! Excellent documentation PhilB! The toothpick is for pegging, you still need an oiler to oil the movement. I suggest the smallest one, usually the black Bergeon which is not to expensive (for a change).

 

 

[PhilB]

They hold the dial in place, you should have pushed them outwards to release the dial. Before fitting the dial hinge them outwards, position the dial, then press them back in to grip the pins.

 

The dial just clips on with two pegs, I can't see how these hold it on tbh.

[PhilB]

Now I can see the new pictures! Excellent documentation PhilB! The toothpick is for pegging, you still need an oiler to oil the movement. I suggest the smallest one, usually the black Bergeon which is not to expensive (for a change).

 

Thanks, I'll have to gather a list of things need to get it back together and place an order.

 

Oil and oiler I think.

 

I'd like a x4 + x10 magnifier.   I'm using a x20 and it's a bit too close.

[Mark]

The dial just clips on with two pegs, I can't see how these hold it on tbh.

Look for my video on how to service a quartz watch. It has the same kind of dial fittings.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PhilB]

Got it. 

 

It would have been handy to know before I prised the face off. Oh well you live and learn.  :unsure:

 

I also now know why, when I went to put the face back on, it was a bit  difficult.

[Mark]

Got it. 

 

It would have been handy to know before I prised the face off. Oh well you live and learn.  :unsure:

 

Thats what its all about :) keep at it - you are doing great!

[Lawson]

Fantastic write-up Phil ... well done!

 

As for being concerned about parts falling out un-noticed, as you said "Photos" ... I take HEAPS of them for just that reason.  Even though I'm getting much better at identifying each part, I never get complacent about taking reference photos, and on more than one occasion it has been invaluable for identifying the correct location for springs and gears.

 

Also Phil, one thing that I also do is download the Tech Document, and name each part as I remove it, verbally to myself.  I also make a point of naming each part properly in my write-ups to reinforce it in my brain.  It may sound a little silly, but for me, it has fast tracked me remembering all the parts of a movement and where they go.

[Legarm]

 I also make a point of naming each part properly in my write-ups to reinforce it in my brain. 

 

I also name the parts, most are called Dave, so I get really confused......... :unsure:

[Geo]

I've come across a few whatsits and the the thingamajigs in chronographs!

[Lawson]

Legarm, on 04 Sept 2014 - 3:46 PM, said:

I also name the parts, most are called Dave, so I get really confused......... :unsure:

Geo, on 04 Sept 2014 - 5:34 PM, said:

I've come across a few whatsits and the the thingamajigs in chronographs!

 

ROFL!!  :lol:

[bobm12]

LOL!!

[PhilB]

Hello guys

 

I want to put this back together, and so have watched Marks videos 

 

How to service a mechanical watch. Part 2 and 3.

 

Mark uses  Moebious 9501 Grease and Moebious D5 Oil.

 

I don't want to spend too much on my first build so is there something cheaper?

 

Phil

[frenchie]

Do you want to put it back together and make sure it works, then take it apart again and so on... ? Or do you want to put it back together to wear it ?

If it's for practice, I say use basic oil to practice oiling properly, to make sure it's lubricated enough to run a bit, but don't use it for long periods of time. I'm probably going to get smacked for saying this.... 

 

If it's for good, then, you have to invest I'm afraid... And it might seem expensive, but this little tiny container of oil will last a looooooonnnng time. Do you have an oiler yet ?

 

How did you end up cleaning it btw ?

[PhilB]

I just want to get it running as an test to see if I'm capable and wouldn't mind stripping it again and doing it with good quality oil.

 

Cheap oil it is, for test purposes only.

[Geo]

I used this oil for my first couple of watches, because l didn't know if I would be any good at watch repair. That was about three years ago and they are still running OK and keeping good time. I now use Mobeous oil.

[PhilB]

Hello guys - I've started rebuilding this movement but I'm having some difficulty replacing this cover plate.

 

As far as I can see, I need to fit the plate while making sure the top stems of these 4 cogs are correctly fitting in their jewels.

 

The first wheel on the left (great wheel) is completely hidden under the cover plate making it impossible to align.

 

Any tips to improve my chances?

 

I haven't installed the crown wheel and winding mechanism.

 

[Geo]

Remove the balance wheel and escapement lever, these should be fitted last. This will now allow you to fit the main bridge more easily, and also allow you to see if everything is running freely. Once you have achieved that, fit the escapement lever and do not oil the jewels that it oscillates in. Now wind the watch 1-2 turns and check that the escapement levers flicks sharply from side to side by gently pushing it with a dry oiler or tooth pick.

If all is well, fit the balance wheel. Make sure that you position the balance jewel correctly in regard to where the the end of the lever. Looking down on the lever, if it lying to the right, ensure that the balance jewel is even further to the right when you drop the balance into position. Vice versa if the lever is lying to the left. As you turn the balance cock into the correct position the watch should start running.

[Mark]

Agreed - as a general rule you should never fit the train wheels after the escapement is in place - you will find it very hard to locate the escape wheel as it will keep fouling the pallets - and you could even chip the pallet jewels.

 

Take the balance and pallets back off then you will be able to fit the train bridge with not problems and importantly check the free running of the train as Geo said.

 

The wheels are correctly orientated as far as I can see. But I would also remove the ratchet wheel which will give you better access to locate the pivots.

 

Good job so far! :)