Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

   Thanks to Mark's videos I have finally decided to try my hand at chronographs. My first attempt was on a 7750 which went well. The earlier models have always looked so complicated that I hesitated. There were lots of levers and adjustments that just bothered me. After watching the six part series I decided to give it a try. Bought two 7733 valjoux movements each with different problems. One was pretty rusty and other had a stem problem. Yesterday I tore into them. The rusty one had some broken parts but I went ahead and started cleaning. The other movement looked as if it had been cleaned but had been over oiled by far. I only wish the pictures would show the amount of oil present everywhere. These first two pictures I am posting were taken as I was disassembling movement. I have watch running and keeping time now. I have another picture or so I may post later as I was putting it back together.

 

Charles K

post-250-0-47805400-1410021174_thumb.jpg

post-250-0-22576700-1410021184_thumb.jpg

Posted

Well done,  doing is the best/only way of learning how to do something,  you are well on your way to becoming a competent watch repairer.  

Posted (edited)

Excellent Charles, I really like working on these. Just remember not to disturb the eccentrics!

Edited by Geo
Posted (edited)

Hi Geo, I hope you are not talking about me! Just kidding, check out the clock I saw today at the museum!....sorry for the hijack!

 

Charles, I believe it will be a great improvement to place a clear color mat under your work so you can have a better visual of the parts (contrasting view?). At least it works for me, hope it helps.

Edited by bobm12
Posted

Hi,

   Thanks for the replies. I have a few more pictures. To Geo you are right about the eccentrics. One of the reasons I decided to work on the movement I did was that they were almost worn away on the rusty movement and very loose. Bobm12 is right about the contrasting view. I took the pictures on my kitchen table by moving them off my bench. Just seem to be able to take better pictures there. Speaking of pictures I will include another I took last night as I was putting things back together. If you notice the hammers you will see what looks like oil still on the surface. That particular part I had put back in my parts tray which I later noticed was very oily. It had oil on it from where I had placed the parts before cleaning. May demonstrate how oily the movement was. If you look under the hammers toward the center of the picture you will see an intermediate wheel which moves the minute counter. There is a spring there that was a real bear to put back. There I loosened the screw that holds so I could get enough play to put it in place. Not sure if there is an easier way but after several different attempts that's what I came up with. You also may notice that the balance isn't installed yet. I did install it to check the running of the watch and then took it back out. Just seems that if I ever drop a screw it always heads toward the balance and I have to take it back out anyway.

Thanks,

Charles

post-250-0-18768800-1410039554_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I have two Poljot 3133 versions of that movement that I have yet to make into one good one. As I've said before they are great 3D jigsaws!

Posted

Hi,

  I have said many times that watches are like a puzzle. First off there is the jigsaw part of what goes where then there is the puzzle of what is making it act the way it is.

 

Charles

Posted

Hi,

   Just wanted to follow up to what Geo said about not disturbing the eccentrics. I started assembling the rusty movement that has some broken parts. Movement will run and keeps time but some chronograph parts are damaged. Earlier I mentioned that some eccentrics were loose and when I removed the chronograph coupling gear part 8080 the eccentric at the end of the arm came out. I put it back and forgot about it. Anyway I cleaned watch and as soon as I put the coupling back the watch would stop. Puzzled over that a bit until I remembered the eccentric coming out. Turned it a bit and watch began running again. The teeth were meshing too tightly between that wheel and the driving wheel. Have gone about as far as I can on that movement without parts. Probably will just put it in a tin and save it for parts. 

  Working on the 7733 has been a fun learning experience and I would like to thank Mark for making the videos that encouraged me to try.

Charles

Posted

Very nice work Charles, I bet this could be quite an experience. I haven't worked on chronographs movements yet, only on little stuff that doesn't require a complete overhaul. In any case, I'm warming up to the task myself!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...