Jump to content

Might Have Bitten Off More Than I Can Chew!?

Dwdrummer97
 Share

Recommended Posts

SeikoWatch Super WRT Addict

SeikoWatch

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the comment No8yogi, However i'll keep intact my Watch. she works great and she keeps time better than a Watch made in China or cheap Watch at $15 or$20 ...and.... I also have a Patek-Philippe repro automatic and this Watch works but for pieces.. this not something that  you'll like anymore lolol...as I don,t travel, there's no problem because I know somewhere in the world it's illegal to wear a reproduction.of a Watch...But I don't care because I don't wear them ....

  • 10 months later...
Lawson Super WRT Addict

Lawson

Posted
Posted
Dwdrummer97, on 25 Feb 2014 - 08:20 AM, said:

I found this info on a page about lubricants.

Special Purpose Lubricants for the Automatic System

Lubeta V105

Lubeta V105 is a dry, waxy lubricant suspended in a clear, sweet smelling liquid similar to that used as the carrier fluid for the ink in ball point pens. Its name is a concatenation of “lube” and “ETA” as the formula was developed by the movement manufacturer ETA SA. The product was designed to simplify the lubrication of the reversing wheels in ETA calibres while also helping to prevent over lubrication, which can be detrimental to the proper functioning of the automatic system.

Lubeta V105 leaves behind a waxy film to lubricate reversing wheels.

Lubeta V105 is applied by submerging the reversing wheels into the solution for several seconds and then removing them to dry. Excess fluid should be blown off with a hand blower and the parts left to dry underneath a bell cover for 15 minutes. Due to the nature of the carrier fluid that the lubrication is suspended in, contact between a freshly coated part and solvent sensitive materials (such as plastic) should be avoided.

 

Hi DW,

 

The lubricant is a dip, you dip the reversing wheel into it, then let it dry out for about 10mins before fitting the wheel back in the movement.

 

I have also make a complete step-by-step walkthrough on how to strip and re-assemble this movement.

You can find it by clicking HERE

 

It shows you reference photos of where all the parts go, in order ... including the Balance Hack that Mark was discussing may be the problem.

I hope it is of help to you, and gives you the confidence, and encourages you with this project mate.

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • caseback
      School Me Please: Sliding Mainspring Bridles

      By caseback · Posted

      This is the old/first(?) way for making a mainspring for an automatic. "Evolution-wise" it is an logical first step forward from a standard spring. Usually these are indeed replaced with a new spring with an integrated/fixed bridle. Lubrication as you would do with any automatic.
    • RickTock
      School Me Please: Sliding Mainspring Bridles

      By RickTock · Posted

      I'm working on a Schild AS 1250 (a 'bumper' automatic) and it's the first time I've seen a mainspring like this. It has what looks like a regular manual-wind mainspring with a 'hook' at its outer extremity. On a manual-wind watch that 'hook' would engage with a 'hook' in the barrel wall to prevent it from rotating. However, the AS 1250's mainspring does not engage directly with the barrel but rather with a 'sliding bridle' that sits between the mainspring and the barrel wall, and evidently facilitates the slip necessary in an automatic. I'm not sure what advantage this two-piece configuration provides, but it highlights a gap (one of many) in my horological knowledge. I'm not sure if 'hook' is the correct term as used above, but please see photo below to see what I mean. Therefore, two questions please. 1. What is the proper way to lubricate a barrel from an automatic watch with a sliding bridle? My guess is the same as any automatic ms/barrel (e.g, a few dabs of braking grease on the interior barrel wall). What do the experts say? 2. I purchased a Generale Ressorts GR3472X mainspring, made for the AS 1250. It looks like the bridle is included and I don't need to salvage and re-use the old one. Is this a safe assumption? Thanks for the advice. If you have any other wisdom you'd like to share about separate sliding mainspring bridles, I would be very interested. Cheers!
    • Mark
      Ad Free WRT

      By Mark · Posted

      Thank you Hector. You too matey 😊
    • HectorLooi
      Ad Free WRT

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      Bless you, Mark. May you live long and prosper!
    • Mark
      Ad Free WRT

      By Mark · Posted

      That’s a nice idea, But i’m committed to providing this site as a gift to the watch repair community as my thank you for my incredible life i’ve had in this business. Ive done well and unless my financial circumstances change then i’m more than happy to foot the bill. If circumstances do change then be assured that I will make an appeal. For now, I’m comfortable with the way things are and I am extremely delighted to remove Google Ads from this site and to stop Patreon, it feels like a major step forward 🙂 Sorry, I missed your reply, I got blinded by another poster in this thread. Yes - I can confirm that I have always seen WRT as a not-for-profit website, and therefore - not a business as such. I’m lucky and have done well in my life due to a decision made in my teens to start a watch repairing apprenticeship which has sustained myself and my family for many years now. Consider this my small way of paying it forward. Ive been committed to keeping the site alive on a technical and financial level for over 10 years now and I have zero plans to change that. Thank you for your kind words by the way. And as for your wish - nobody can control what happens in life, if something happens to me I have things in place with my family but I’m just not comfortable talking about my personal business - I wish a certain person would respect that, but i’ve calmed down now - i’m only human 😄  
×
×
  • Create New...