unexpected complication

[Pangit]

Ladies and Gents,

Ok, so I watched Mark's videos, read some books, and practiced on some not very valuable examples. Just when I thought I was having some success, I ran into this. Completely unexpected design and extra pieces on everything. I have made some progress toward disassembly, but I can't figure out how to remove the wheel from the exterior of the Barrel/Train bridge so as to get at the rest of the movement. This is a Swiss, Beleforte, 7 jewel, 11B 15 movement (I read this on the movement, clever hu?). It doesn't seem to be desirable watch, and I have found no helpful information whatever on the net, but I think it's cool, and I would rather not break it. Does anyone have answers on this watch and its disassembly?

 

Thanks!

[Chopin]

That wheel is probably held in place by a circlip or something beneath it. On the other side of the plate. Can you remove the entire plate ? Either that or you might have to start with the dial side, somehow...

[StuartBaker104]

There is a little more info on this brand here, but a quick look in the usual places says spare parts will be very hard to get unless you can get a scrap movement, so ask lots of question and try not to break anything 

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f11/1960s-belforte-destro-custom-604277.html

First you will need to remove the small plate (cock) on the back that supports the centre secods pinion. The large wheel that drives this is a press fit onto the shaft which drives it. (If you look closely you should see the small steel driving pin in the middle of the hub of this wheel). Make a careful note or take a photo of how the bronze spring plate fits against the centre seconds pinion. This is a friction spring which compensates for the backlash between the driving wheel and pinion to make sure the seconds hand doesn’t move backwards. 

To remove the large wheel then ideally you need one of these https://www.hswalsh.com/product/bergeon-30638-3-watch-wheel-removing-tool-hh53 however, you can also do this with a knife blade either side and levering up equally so as not to bend the shaft. The knife blades should be under the hub, not the rim of the wheel so you don’t bend the wheel. Just to make it more fun, the wheel can fly off suddenly if you use this method, so do it inside a plastic bag or cover with cling film first.

From this point you can disassemble as normal.

 

 

[StuartBaker104]

By the way, also good to do this... https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/forum/23-introduce-yourself-here/

[Tmuir]

I'm not familiar with that movement, but it could also be friction fitted, which means you need a special puller to remove it off the shaft.

If you try to use leavers you will almost certainly break the shaft it is fitted on as despite your best efforts the pressure wont be even on both sides.

[Deggsie]

I'm not familiar with that movement, but it could also be friction fitted, which means you need a special puller to remove it off the shaft.
If you try to use leavers you will almost certainly break the shaft it is fitted on as despite your best efforts the pressure wont be even on both sides.

Definitely press fit



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[Pangit]

Got it! Thank you, Stuart. Check out my pry bars. Even the blades from a utility knife were too thick. As you said, I put it in a plastic bag, and sure enough, "SNAP." But, the shaft seems to be straight and intact. Do you have any suggestions for putting it back, when the time comes? I can't believe how tight that little thing was!

One last question. I am new; how do I mark this as solved, so people don't waste their time trying to solve it for me?

 

[jdm]

5 minutes ago, Pangit said:

One last question. I am new; how do I mark this as solved, so people don't waste their time trying to solve it for me?

I did for you; use the check mark top left corner in every posting is this section only.

[StuartBaker104]

37 minutes ago, Pangit said:

Do you have any suggestions for putting it back, when the time comes?

I’d normally use a flat punch in a staking set but only use finger pressure - it’s a taper fit and won’t go anywhere once it’s on; don’t confuse the force required to remove with that to refit it. With a 7 jewel movement there isn’t a jewel on the far end so no need to try and support that.

Good luck and let us know how you get on!

Edited April 28, 2018 by StuartBaker104

[Deggsie]

I’d normally use a flat punch in a staking set but only use finger pressure - it’s a taper fit and won’t go anywhere once it’s on; don’t confuse the force required to remove with that to refit it. With a 7 jewel movement there isn’t a jewel on the far end so no need to try and support that.
Good luck and let us know how you get on!

A hand press will suffice


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