Jump to content

Amplitude

jnoble

By jnoble
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

jnoble New Member

jnoble

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, Im new to this forum and I have a technical question and maybe someone could give me some advice or share some tip to resolve this problem. The thing is that I just service an ETA 2836 2. Once the job is finish the movement starts very strong with a good time reading, Beat error 0.6ms, Ampluitude 267 etc. but in a lapse of 24 hours the movement begins to loose time and the amplitude drops dramatically at the point that the movement completly stops.all pivots are in a good condition, not broken or chip jewel. This movement is completly strip, just the train work is in place. Please help.

Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
Posted

Checked all the teeth on the barrel? Is there any dirt trapped between any of the teeth?

Same with the great wheel and pinion.

Endshake and side shake of barrel - can the barrel lean over enough to touch any of the wheels - you can check the barrel bridge, is there any scoring under it or under the ratchet wheel?

Hopefully you can see where I am going with this.

 

Also - check the hour wheel teeth, is there a calendar? If so then remove the calendar work and test again, maybe the changeover is causing the problem.

 

Check the free running of the train - e.g. fully assembled without the escapement/balance and manually turn the wheels (with the keyless and motion work assembled) make sure it turns for several cycles of the barrel - slowly and with as little pressure as possible, if the wheels become erratic then remove the motion work, then work your way all the way to the barrel checking all the teeth and pinion leaves to make sure no grit or dirt is wedged in where it should not be.

 

Hope this helps.

jnoble New Member

jnoble

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you so much. Im going to check every detail that you pointed me. I will keep you inform of the progress. Ohhh and by the way let me take a couple of lines to tell you that I admire you as a professional, because you are one of the few persons in the trade that doesnt have fear to pass your knwoledge to help others. In my case I have to turn to a person that is 6,600km apart from me to get any help or advice. Once again thank you so much for your help. 

  • Like 1
bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

Welcome from Florida, USA where the mighty nurse shark lurks in pools and small creeks (they hide very well so nobody really can see them there). :)

 

post-253-0-61083900-1417295406.jpg

 

In any case, this is THE forum to hang out in! Great gang here too!

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

That's a human isn't it?

Oh Colin, you need your eyes tested. How on earth do you manage to work on watches?? :-)

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Neverenoughwatches
      New forum member, new learner

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Tissot case back removal

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • tomh207
      New forum member, new learner

      By tomh207 · Posted

      You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • chrisG
      New forum member, new learner

      By chrisG · Posted

      The hairspring end has come adrift from the small terminal barrel.  I have tried to remove the taper pin to relocate it, but the task is beyond my skill set, eyes, hands and being in my 70s, probably beyond my life expectancy.  It is not too badly mangled on the end.  On the ebay offer, that really is a bit on the rich side.  I'll keep looking, maybe a good hairspring will turn up with a shot balance staff. As for time spent on knees.  I made up one of these from 3M magnetic tape and a piece of wood.  It works well for magnetic parts. Other things I have suffered with.  I found lubricants so very expensive that I bought some very small syringes and tiny needles.  I just decant a drop into my oiling pots when I start a movement and the remainder keeps really well in the syringes. Finally identifying the correct screw for the part led me to make up the board in the final pic.   Thanks for the info. Kind regards   Chris  
×
×
  • Create New...