Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all. 

I know most people here find skeleton watches not so interesting, and there is no thread on it yet.

Mark's course is very exciting, and so far, after a few strip downs my seagull clone (ETA 6498) is still good. I was wondering if pushing a little bit more would be rewarding. 

Has anyone tried to hollow the parts of this movement? It would be good to hear before, just to avoid the most obvious pitfalls.. Anyone else would like to try? we could share information here.

 

Posted
8 hours ago, marcoskaiser said:

I know most people here find skeleton watches not so interesting

Just because it doesn't appear to be an active conversation doesn't mean that we all despise skeleton watches. I actually have three skeleton watches. A Chinese wristwatch and a Swiss pocket watch these were commercially done.

Then images attached I did this a long time ago.

sk-1.JPG

sk-2.JPG

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This is a method that Jon uses, and has posted a video of performing it somewhere .
    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently! Another option:  
×
×
  • Create New...