Jump to content

Help With A Loose Vintage Minute Hand.

chrisbuxton27
 Share

Recommended Posts

chrisbuxton27 Watch Enthusiast

chrisbuxton27

Posted
Posted

Can anyone advise me on how to reduce the hole size of a vintage minute hand. The hand is flatl and through age and wear is loose on the minute wheel arbor. I have a comprehensive staking set but don't know which to use.. Thanks

bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

I've just received my staking set (this morning, still in the box, waiting for me at home) and I would like to know how to do that too!!! Thank you in advance.

chrisbuxton27 Watch Enthusiast

chrisbuxton27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Never had a problem with the hour and seconds hands, I just use the same technique as for tightening a cannon pinion. Just drop it down a broach good side up and give the shaft a little squeeze with blunt nail clippers.

bobm12 Distinguished Member

bobm12

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the tip, may I ask what broaches you find more useful. I'm about to order some but I'm not sure where to start.

clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

A controlled nip is required. For this reason I put them in a lathe collet and GENTLY tighten. It is really,really easy to go to far. You can use a broach but I recommend you put the broach in a vice so you have total control. 

chrisbuxton27 Watch Enthusiast

chrisbuxton27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Clockboy the type of minute hand I mean has no stem just a flat hand with a hole to push onto the minute wheel. So there is nothing to place in the lathe collet. I'm thinking a stake of some shape to to close the gap slightly but not sure which would do it. Maybe a stake used for setting jewel stones would do it but that's something I've not tried either.

clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

Ok sorry did not read the post correctly. However I recommend to get hold of the Cousins catalogue and browse it.

There are lots of hands available , different styles etc.  You will need to know length,width hole size etc. Too small is Ok because you can broach the hole out to fit but to big I really don,t know a way around it. Using a staking set punch might be to much for a delicate hand. The cleaver boys (not me) would make another arbour with a fatter shaft or thin the minute arbour and put a sleeve on. But you need a watchmakers lathe and lots of skill which I do not possess.

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Clockboy the type of minute hand I mean has no stem just a flat hand with a hole to push onto the minute wheel.

A very gentle tap with a round nose stake should do the trick.

  • Like 2
Charlie WRT Addict

Charlie

Posted
Posted

On a proper staking set you will find several hole reducing punches. The five blued punches with round polished ends are the ones I use to re-size hands. Smaller seconds hands as found on sub-seconds dials with tiny tubes I do with my set of pin vises. There are also other ways to accomplish this task, but I find these punches work well for me. I will post a photo shortly.

  • Like 1
Charlie WRT Addict

Charlie

Posted
Posted

Geo got it right, a light tap on the mandrel with the handle removed from the jeweling tool, using one of the above punches or similar will do it.

  • Like 2
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Mercurial
      Phinney Walker Mickey Mouse Watch HELP

      By Mercurial · Posted

      This eBay listing seems to verify that the watch disassembles as I suggested : here. The display caseback is held by the section that pushes out of the outermost rear bezel.  The movement seems to be a Ronda 1113. Best Regards, Mark
    • zx6rfool
      Hi From Virginia

      By zx6rfool · Posted

      Decided to update with the repaired watch back in rotation and the new anniversary gift.   
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Neverenoughwatches
      New forum member, new learner

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Tissot case back removal

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
×
×
  • Create New...