Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

How long should the intervals be for changing to a new piece of Rodico.

 

Should you use a new piece every watch service?

Leave it for a few services?

ORRRRrrrr leave it until you can wring it out and recover all of that expensive oil and grease?

 

Just wondering..........  :unsure:

Posted

You know when Rodico is no longer effective when it starts leaving smears on watch plates. Every time you use it you should massage it like putty and mix it up. Then if it is not effective then keep it on a big blob on your bench - its still useful when its dirty for going round a dirty case or holding a part in place while you go over it with a scratch brush, you get the idea.

 

And Rodico that is not clean enough for movements but too clean for really dirty work - its great for using as an oiler/tweezer cleaner.

I used to use pithwood for this but I prefer now to use slightly older Rodico. Before I put the oiler in to draw oil, I will first push the oiler in some rodico - every time as a habit. 

 

Also useful for pressing the tips of your tweezers in to remove stickiness.

 

On a slightly different note - I tried the premium Rodico once, didn't see any added benefit. The regular Rodico is perfect.

  • Like 3
Posted

Thank you for the detailed answer Mark, I appreciate it and still learning! I've also noticed that rodico and some of the chemicals we use (ex. lighter fluid) kind of dissolves it even makes a mess out of it for lack of a better word. There is another equivalent not by Bergeon and dark blue. Have you tried it?

Posted

Hi. Yes I forgot to mention that. It is not a good idea to get cleaning fluid on it - or lots of oil.

I only like the Bergeon - the other one 'one touch' is not nice imo

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • This eBay listing seems to verify that the watch disassembles as I suggested : here. The display caseback is held by the section that pushes out of the outermost rear bezel.  The movement seems to be a Ronda 1113. Best Regards, Mark
    • Decided to update with the repaired watch back in rotation and the new anniversary gift.   
    • I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
×
×
  • Create New...