Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

How to clean best old watchmaker collets that have a little surface rust and dirt. How do you maintain them generally so they do not rust in the long run .. 

 

Thanks

Henry

Posted

Clean them with a brushing pad (on a rotary tool if there is stubborn dirt), then white petrol plus few drops of machine oil.

  • Like 2
Posted

I have used the edge of a screwdriver very carefully on the threads, where there is lots of dirt and a fake metal cleaning pad does not work. Lots of oil though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, jdrichard said:

I have used the edge of a screwdriver very carefully on the threads, where there is lots of dirt and a fake metal cleaning pad does not work.

It works beautiful on threads. Green kitchen pad (no sponge) at the supermarket. Cousins also sells them in big sizes.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Bigger collets (5c) I spin the in the lathe and polish them with a red (medium) scotch-brite pad. Inside as well if I can get in there. Then I spray with aerosol Precision oil- sold for micrometers etc. it just sprays on and leaves a light film as it dries. Will not affect tolerances. 

If the back side taper is rusty, I polish that by hand with the red pad. It is as critical as the bore so be careful. Any burrs get knocked down with a stone. 

Threads are easily cleaned with a wire “tooth” brush. Stainless bristles are fine. But you can use brass. Spray threads with the oil too. 

Some of the 5c collets have an internal thread for a work stop. These I clean with a bottle brush. Smaller bottle brushes can be used to clean inside the collets too. Small bores can be cleaned with brushes for cleaning baby straws etc. but lab supply places have tons of sizes and materials. You can also cut a slot in a dowel and slide the piece of red pad in there to polish the id of collets. 

Edited by Tudor
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The external surfaces of a collet are easily cleaned up, however the real issue (at least for watchmaker sized ones) is corrosion in the bore.  Obviously very difficult to get at mechanically.  You could use an appropriate sized bit of brass wire as a lap but then there's the potential to start changing the collet dimension or bell mouthing it.   Some of the rust removal solutions work really well, I would try a soak in them.  They should remove the rust and only and on the inside and out.

With the rust removed, the best idea is to take steps to prevent it.  Rust requires oxygen and water.   A great deal of the water that causes rust comes from condensate.   Getting a dehumidifier will make the biggest difference, and keep the room a constant temperature.  Most condensate falls of the the air when there is a temperature change  -i.e. dew.  The idea is to keep well away from the dew point. The other thing is keep all tools covered, in drawers etc.  It minimizes the amount of air around the tool and hence how much condensate there can be.  Keping things oiled can help.  Oil doesn't protect so much from direct water like condensate, but it does provide a temporary barrier from the air, air that contains both water and oxygen.

Last thought, the volume of iron oxide is many times that of steel, so if there is just a bit of rust on something, don't despair.  If the rust is light, you likely won't even be able to measure a dimension change

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 1
Posted

Just my 5 cents as a good oil to stop rust.

Many years ago I bought a bottle of Camellia Oil to stop my Japanese woodworking saws from rusting.

It is a very light oil that doesn't leave the item sticky.

The japanese used to use it for protecting their swords first and then when the swordsmiths turned to making woodworking tools it was used on these high quality tools.

I now use this oil on anything precision that I want to protect from rust.

This is the stuff

https://www.kriscutlery.com/other-weapons/camellia-oil-for-knves-swords-and-tools

Of course this only helps you after you have cleaned the items.

  • Like 3

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
    • This is indeed a unique site and members including myself genuinely care about it.  All we want is the site to continue. 
    • Hello Mark,  thank you for the ad removal , like JohnR725 , I appreciate any revenue from such would be helpful.  This is the one forum which encourages conversation and social interaction and in that sense it is unique  All the others I frequent can be a little intimidating and answers some what terse some quite rude. I think on here we try to do justice to your site in keeping with your principals. In my opinion it is like no other. The contributors  behave and act like gentlemen and ladies. And long may it continue to be so.
×
×
  • Create New...