Jump to content

Casing issue

Mattaphysics
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mattaphysics WRT Addict

Mattaphysics

Posted
Posted

So here's this case. The lugs are their own separate piece and the crystal comes off but now it doesn't want to budge.... I thought the crown was supposed to pull out but this doesn't move. There's no way to get to the movement either.... Any ideas? 134d9b768fb362e182aec4aa6d571caa.jpg8da1af7fa218ec7c98af1f6e8ad4e04e.jpg5d0e3e6d46e3bdd540262eea130feeec.jpg

 

Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

It should be a two-piece stem, it sometimes takes a lot of force to remove.

Having said that, I had a Wyler on the bench which I assumed takes a 2-piece stem but unfortunately someone had replaced it with a one piece stem which broke. How the previous guy did it was to place the movement in the case sans keyless works and install the stem and keyless stuff with the movement in the case. The dial was then glued on and hands, crystal etec installed.

Good luck

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mattaphysics WRT Addict

Mattaphysics

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes many things it was indeed a two-piece stem I just needed a little extra elbow grease to get out.

Now the problem is that it seems the movement is maybe too small for the case itself. It runs beautifully when out of the case, then I put it in the case I put the glass on and it just it won't run it just doesn't want to run I mean if I twist it a little bit you know it'll run for a bit but other than that it's being very stubborn.

I'll Include pictures of the movement and case the movement, I was surprised actually, is a very nice AS 1198 in a brevet 974 case. I was surprised because it was a whole lot of pin pallet escapement, one jewel movements and a bunch of junk and that just happened to be the diamond in the rough right there.

Also included is the other crap I got. Cleaned and fixed up a couple but this and the one showed are the only two salvageable ones.

Also actually is this Worldman Calendar pin pallet one jewel but I was so excited to get working on the lot the seconds hand flew off and is somewhere around the room. Unfortunately for me too it's carpeted so I might find it I might not... Live and learn as they say. Also I believe I'm pretty sure I strip the hair spring on the world man because it's running extremely fast and I cannot regulate it so I'm trying to fix the hair spring on it which is of course a nightmare on a these cheapies but I'm doing what I can39ae5a724ca706e3badd4741cb6561d7.jpgb88c70b9f89c26fa56d6c9a0362078b1.jpg5d535558915ccd52e9e30ee38199b329.jpg7ac2b3578c40f18a24ac1456832a85ce.jpg

Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

When it comes to fault finding you need to work in stages. So the obvious first, check the case for dents, make sure the dial isn’t bent or pinching anything. Try the movement in the case minuses the dial, then add dial and one hand at a time. Is the glass correct. That sort of thing. It is a process of elimination.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mattaphysics WRT Addict

Mattaphysics

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok now a new car problem... I'm thinking I'll need a crystal list for this one but it doesn't seem like it's that old that they would have used a front loading movement. There's a clear snap back case but I don't see where it would open in the front. The movement though doesn't want to come out of this. It's a Helbros base in West Germany. Wonderful movement. I looked up the symbol and it's an Annemasse P76. At least the Symbol looks identical to the Annemasse symbol. I know it will run I'm trying to clean it but I can't get it out of the darn case!

 

I can't thank you guys enough for all the help you've given me! And with prompt responses as well... This place really is a treasure trove and of a value I could never appraise. I want to go into an apprenticeship but the options are severely lacking here in the states. Oh what I wouldn't give to live in Europe... Anyway thanks

 

Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

11bf9393372d6f4a213d2d65bc738803.jpg2e26a21feca497c3680a975a38c0de94.jpg666c30005927398e680bc66a85aaf15f.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Your nicest antique tools or materials?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      That was the intial reason I used mine the one time, timegrapher wouldn't pick up a signal, but it turned out to be something else. For fairly rare events like this, you're probably better off using Nicklesilver's method, or use an accurate pocket watch to match the oscillations up to. I think the tool is best suited to folk that time balances regularly, as would have been the case years ago. Maybe for small companies that let out their hairspring timing services, that didn't have the movement to work with. At the end of the day you already have the perfect timing device....the actual movement. The tool's convenience merely saves you the time and effort of unpinning and repinning the hairspring to the stud a few times to get it right.  Providing a " Prior Idiot " hasn't fitted incorrect train wheels 😄
    • SwissSeiko
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By SwissSeiko · Posted

      If you restaff the balance correctly, there should be no need to repoise the wheel, unless it was messed with by a previous watchmaker. Here is an experiment to try that will explain my findings. Remove the balance from a correctly running watch that is marked "adjusted to 5 or 6 positions" or however many they claim. Place it on your poising tool, and you will find that it is out of poise. But, being out of poise, it has been adjusted for positional adjustments, to average the 5 or 10 seconds a day. It seems like you would want the wheel to be perfectly weighted all around, but it might run better a little heavier CU at the 4:30 position on the wheel. HERE is a good article that can explain it better than me. I also see a large amount of bad repairs, back when it was a cutthroat occupation. So if someone did re-poise a balance before you, you might have to do it again to correct it for positional accuracy. But at that point, its a sunken cost fallacy, as it will take a long time to make adjustments to 6 positional accuracy, so you might be better off finding an unmolested replacement.
    • praezis
      Your nicest antique tools or materials?

      By praezis · Posted

      You have a PM.
    • Arigato
      Need help figuring out click spring

      By Arigato · Posted

      Copy!    thank you.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Need help figuring out click spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      This is a little clearer with the directions added. The spring must pull the click back not push. So the opposite way to which the click is being pulled into the teeth. As though its being opened out. Haha you've got it ! I didnt see the picture . Needs to come further around cw. Closer to the long leg.
×
×
  • Create New...